|
|
|
Well I bought a rust free 240 circa 1976. These are very uncommon where I come form (by the way). I was planning to Fix this one up for my son(s) age 7 and 5. I'm giving myself barely enought time for this. I was initially planning to swap the motor from my '79, but now I'm beginning to think about swapping a newer motor (perhaps form a wreck) and I was wondering what the boardsters reccommend for a simple(ish) doable engine swap. Probal=bly the newest motor available provided I can get the guts form a donorand don't have to pick around at every boneyard in a tri-state area.
Oh, the stats: '76 245 manual, overdrive. green. interior mods. Seized due to lack of lubricant.
--
...'79 245 rusting and rolling broke od.. 160+
|
|
-
|
|
|
I saw that car and I bid on it but not enough. I believe I was next high bidder to you. Not only does it look like a good body, it has a nice set of turbo wheels on it.
Have you picked it up yet?
Congratulations. My wife thanks you.
Harold
|
|
-
|
|
|
Picked it up today and its ok. I called and talked to the guy who owned it and I won't say that I was misled....but. The body is solid, a couple of smallish rust points and little dents here and there but no significant rust whatsoever-even under the driver seat-a big plus. When I wrote to the owner about the condition of the vehicle-he implied that it had been fixed up with leather seats and lots of modifications...etc. BUT wheh I arrived today to get it the definition of modification (in Oklahoma) is: we chucked about four assorted rat eaten seats in the back. More dirt inside the car than in all of Oklahoma. And whern I asked if I could pull out the spare seats and check the back out-he REFUSED! I was amazed but I payed anyway owing to the fact that I purchased on e-bay, My wife loves green, and I enjoy a challenge. I'll let you know how she cleans up.
--
...'79 245 rusting and rolling broke od.. 160+
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well, you don't have very much money into it yet. If the wheels are in good shape you've got your money's worth though I understand what it's like to get something that's not exactly what you thought you were getting. I've been down that path -- in fact I drive one of those experiences.
My intention, had I been the high bidder instead of next to high bidder, would have been to get a donor car with a B230F or B23 -- presuming that the 76's body and chassis were good and the interior was restorable. Lots of them around and I think that the newer fuel injection etc would be worth the trouble of transferring all the wiring, computers, etc. I suppose an adventerous soul could even get a turbo donor car though they seem to be a little pricier.
I think the 76 wagon is a very stylish vehicle and I think you've got something with the potential to be a very satisfying/rewarding project. I understand about projects, too, by the way.
Good luck with it. I'd sure be interested to learn how it turns out/cleans up.
Harold
|
|
-
|
|
|
Short answer: yes. The mount points are the same.
Long answer: Chances are, with all the different systems installed over time, you may also need to transfer wiring, ignition and injection computers, sensors, etc.
You have 2 basic options: one is transferring the "guts" (ie. the longblock) and keeping all the ancilaries from the old one. The old one probably has K-jet, the later ones have LH-jet which lacks the injector holes in the head, so that would be a bit of a problem.
The alternative is to grab everything from the donor: block, wiring, sensors, manifolds, air filter housing, ducting, the lot, and basically upgrade the oily bits to full later model spec. More work, but you will on the other hand end up with newer stuff and in my opinion a more reliable system.
Bram
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be broken login guy
on
Fri Jan 10 18:06 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
|
|
Well, the answe, as usual, is "it depends".
The blocks are pretty much interchangeable. The heads, well, not so much.
K-Jet heads ('76-'81 and most '82) have holes for injectors. LH-Jet heads (a few '82, and '83+ non-turbo) do not. The injectors mount into the manifolds.
If it's just the block that's shot, or if the head is rebuildable, you could use any block with the current head. But you probably want to stay away from the '85- mid-'88 B230 blocks, they have smaller bearings.
Now, if you really want to go fast, what you want is a Canadian-spec B23E. I have one for sale, but I'm in Michigan.
|
|
-
|
|
|
What makes the Canadian-spec B23E faster? What's the difference?
|
|
-
|
|
|
The E engine is high compression, or should we say the "regular" engine, and the F engine, which all US cars received, is the somewhat lower compression engine, making a bit less horsepower. Volvoworld.com has some good tech info in their 240 section, which should clear up what engines made how much horsepower. That's a great resource and you should check them out if you haven't yet. The E engine would not be a federalized version of the engine- it may or may not be able to pass your state's emissions tests. I'm sure a good running E would pass anyway, but Volvo's reason for sending us the F's was to comply with the tough (for the time) California emissions standards.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total
|
|
|
|
|
