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Hey Mark,
I'm wishing I had an M41 setup instead of funky unknown automatic in my 70 145S project. Gonna work on that!
My Volvo manual says to take the whole bottom pan off bottom of the overdrive to drain the oil and check and clean the intake screen. From the diagram, there does appear to be a gasket so you might want to arm yourself with a replacement gasket before attempting this. (Draining the oil hot is advised.) On filling, put pan and tranny bottom plug back in, then fill slowly through tranny fill plug. OD will fill from tranny. Fill to trann fill plug overflow.
If you find a bunch of metal debris, then you will know that the clock is ticking and as was pointed out, probably better to fix before too much more damage is done. If there's no debris, and noise is minimal then you can breathe easier. The bearing may be failing, but it could still go for a long time. I drove over 50k miles with the input bearing on my 260Z diffy growling and shaking. Finally changed the whole diffy cause it was too annoying and speed limiting. It never did generate metal debris into the oil.
I don't know about mixing gear oil and ATF, but would recommend you drain both chambers and refill with Redline MTF gear oil. The stuff is light viscosity so it won't violate the 30W recommendation so badly, but it has excellent anti-wear properties for gearboxes. I'm using it with excellent results in wife's Jetta that used to grind gears terribly on shifting with 85W-140.
A client of mine had a major industrial lube system get all slimy and funky from mixing Chevron hydraulic oil with Chevron turbine oil. Who would have thought? Anyway, probably better not to mix more than you can help.
Later,
Al
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