hey,

Just got some new bushings for my '92 and '84 and am ready to do the job, I'm pretty familiar with repair work on the car and know how to approach it but I'm asking for specifics, I've been told it's a PITA and I've been told it's easy. What do I need to do?

Josh

Fine...

Don't listen to me...

See if I ever let you set me up on a blind date again...

Give me a call when you want to get together.

K.
--
3 242Ti's, 245Ti, 244T, 244, XR4Ti, CRX Si, Dakota

You can replace these bushings at home with regular tools. (We are talking about the big bushing at the back of the front suspension lower control arms, right?)
Unbolt the big nut from the control arm, unbolt the carrier bracket from the frame, wrestle it off of there, and set it against something or in a big vise. Hit the bushing squarely with about a 3-lb min-sledge hammer and they'll drive right out.
"Installation is the reverse of the above."
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

Hey Rob, you mean this works? On the car? Sounds right and now I don't know why I was putting it off. Thanks.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I do mine off the car. The hardest part for me was separating the bushing from the back end of the control arm.
Once I have the corner brackets or whatever you call them off, I actually prefer to rest them against something solid, like the garage foundation or a curb, and swing the hammer down by my feet for maximum impact. The hammer knocks them right out, every time... eventually. Not saying you won't get a workout, but no, you don't need a press.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

By on the car, I meant you don't pull the control arm. What I seem to hear is the front bushing is likely still good and is a real bear to press out. I didn't think about disconnecting the rear bushing with the control arm in the car, but that's what it sounds like you are doing. Just work on the bracket/bushing assy off the car. Much quicker process if that nut isn't a problem, I'm guessing.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I'm following this close contemplating doing this very thing to my 245. Don't really know anything about it but i have a tip. If you are going to pound out a suspension bushing it helps to spray it down real good with your penetrant du jour about two days before hand and drive the car some giving the stuff a chance to work in.
Bret
--
rust free in west Texas

Note that the left side and right side bushings have different part numbers - allegedly, they have different stiffnesses, but they are the same dimensions. I have yet to hear authoritatively *which* side is stiffer! In a mental lapse I mixed mine up last spring, so I have a 50% chance of having them in the correct locations.

I thought the job was straightforward. Check the manual, but - support the car, pull the wheel, unbolt the sway bar link, loosen the front A-arm pivot bolt (eat your Wheaties first), then remove the 3 bolts holding the 'tray' bushing. The whole A-arm comes off. I had trouble unbolting the rear bolt, and ended up drilling out the rubber and chiseling off the inner bushing sleeve - it had rusted onto the shaft. Once the nut was off, I squirted the old bushing with PB Blaster and then it was just press work after that (I have a press available at work).

When re-installing, you are supposed to have the weight of the car on the front wheels so that the bushings are loaded when final torque is applied. The exhaust downpipe is really in the way on the passenger side, so I cheated - I got an approximate final rotational position of the bracket relative to the A-arm, and torqued the right side off the car. Close enough for my needs - I was maybe 5 degrees off at most.

I did the A-arms, torque rods and Panhard rod bushings - in about 4 hours total. Maybe 5 if I include the St Pauli Girl break...

Smitty, your post makes me thirsty.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Loud cussing and adult beverages are necessary "job lubricants" whenever I work on cars! Never finished a significant job without either.

The best way is to remove the bracket and take them to a machine shop. Unless you got boge ones, have them tach weld the bushings in after they have been pressed in.

Installation is easy but don't forgot to torque them with the weight on the car, you may need a stuby wrench for the passenger side one, the exhaust is in the way.