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I'm planning on fixing the hard shift from 1-2 on my '86 245...
really getting tired of the shock of that shift off every stop in the city!
anyway my questions are as follows:
1 - where do I look to see what kind of transmission I have AW70 or AW71?
2 - Do I need a special tool to hold things in the valve body so that I can keep from spilling all the springs and balls onto my garage floor or can I do this job safely with a normal mechanics toolset?
3 - Anyone know if there are any tricks or tips I should know ahead of time...?
I have the OEM Volvo manual for the transmission and it indicates a special tool to clamp something or hold something (hard to tell from the pictures what it is until I get in there) and I'm hoping I can get by without the extra expense.
This was my intention to be fixed 2 weeks after I got this car for $50... $800 in parts, several weekends and 8 months later I'm ready to attack the 1-2 klunk!
tia,
jack
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jack, '86 245, 248,000 mi., Columbus, Ohio
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OK,
so it seems like many of you are suggesting a fluid flush and filter change to see if that eliminates the klunk.
If I later decide to dive into the valve body will I again have to buy a significant amount of tranny fluid?
2nd question:
I'm not experiencing any other hard shifts, just from 1-2 ... do you still think a fluid flush will do the trick?
p.s. when I first got the car I lost a significant amt. of fluid (enough to keep the car from moving) due to a cooler line leak. I felt like I replaced about 6 quarts of fluid in that process... would that be about the same as a flush?
I guess that's 3 qns. - thanks,
jack, seriously considering a flush and filter change
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jack, '86 245, 248,000 mi., Columbus, Ohio
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Plan on buying a case of ATF - that'll be about $25. Actual listed volume is 7.8 quarts, but you'll use a couple more in the process. If you need to get into the trans, you'll lose about 3 quarts when you drop the pan. The bigger volume is in the torque converter, which you can't drain while it's in the car.
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Thanks Smitty, et al.
I will try the flush first and let you know how it goes.
maybe this weekend... or tomorrow night,
jack
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jack, '86 245, 248,000 mi., Columbus, Ohio
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Back when I was in the Compuserve Automotive forum, there were a couple of auto trans rebuilders there who swore by the Lube Gard products, to the point that they would not warranty a rebuild without it. Call me a sucker for believing advertising hype, but the difference before/after with fresh ATF and Lube Gard was dramatic. For a few bucks I think it's worth it. Again, the red bottle, available at NAPA stores.
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Did the ATF flush last night, made a bit of a mess but put in fresh fluid.
the fluid that was in the tranny was still pretty good and red.
there was a noticeable improvement in the 1-2 shift but it still gives a kick I'd like to eliminate...
I'm gonna try the Lube Gard and if that doesn't fix it make a plan to tear into the valve body.
I'll keep you updated
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Bad Blue, '86 245, 250,000 mi., Columbus, Ohio
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Stracker,
I had the same problem on my 1990 240. However, after replacing the rear main seal on my car I decided to do a little extra work to the tranny since it was out of the car. I replaced the pump seal, metal filter, pan gasket, shifter bushing, detent cable, tail shaft bushing, and flushed all the old fluid out... man, what a change! Now, it shifts beautifully. While I may have went to an extreme with the extra maintainence, I would say that the metal filter (cheap at FCP Groton) and fluid change were the real key to the end of the hard shift blues. So, give it a try before you dig into the tranny. Hope this helps...
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In my limited experience with the AW70, the harshness of shifting was dramatically reduced on the kid's '91 240 (100K miles) after we did the trans fluid flush and added the prescribed amount of Lube Gard (red bottle, available at NAPA). For the cost and simplicity, I would do that first before ripping into the tranny internals. And definitely check the kickdown cable for proper adjustment and freedom from binding.
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I agree, or rather, had the same experience. Noticed a significant improvement in the 1-2 wheel-chirping shift after flushing. Didn't add anything, but I wasn't really trying to cure the hard shift either. I admit it was a little disappointing as I was so looking forward to dropping that pan and valve body;)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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1-2 poor shift? Make SURE your kickdown cable is not the cause. It could be binding or kinked internally.
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Thanks,
I'd seen the FAQ on the hardshifts but not the identification of transmission type, it looks like I have the AW70 without Lockout (lockup?).
Do you know where the id tag is on those so I can confirm absolutely ?
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jack, '86 245, 248,000 mi., Columbus, Ohio
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I'm curious to hear about the responses to this. A have an AW70 in my '87, and the 1-2 shift is pretty harsh as is engaging 1st and reverse sometimes, its a pretty significant ker-whunk. Do you ever experience that as well?
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1981 Volvo 244 GL w/ 225K Original B21F and 3spd. auto
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I haven't experienced anything other than the 1 to 2 klunk...
I can't say for sure whether or not other klunks would be other Valve Body parts needing replaced or not, but it's possible.
about now I'm wishing I was a transmission expert!
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jack, '86 245, 248,000 mi., Columbus, Ohio
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