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Level of expertise needed for exhaust repairs? 200

Recently took my 244 to a volvo shop and was told that the
rattle I was hearing on acceleration was the catalytic
converter falling apart from the inside. Also was told
that the front pipe, or what they called the header pipe
had a crack in it. They quoted me $950. Is it possible
for me to change these out myself with only rhino ramps and
common tools? If so, what all do I need as far as parts?
I saw and newandusedvolvoparts.com that I could buy a
Bosal header pipe and converter for around 250 for both
but there is also brakets, seals etc..... what all would
I need besides the parts? thankyou in advance for
advice.

94 944T 99K
90 244DL 143K








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    The only crack is what they're smoking. 200

    It isn't a question of IF you can do exhaust work. It's a matter of how much you like to abuse yourself.

    Must:

    I hate exhaust work and I use one Meinecke shop (with parts supplied by the my shop).

    For reference, my brother had his catalytic converter and header pipe replaced for something like $400, at the Volvo dealer. The parts were aftermarket, but the job was good and it's been quiet for four years.

    You've seen the parts cost; I think the cost is at least double what I'd expect, for a $125 catalytic converter, and a $75 header pipe installed. In fact, it might be more like 3x as much as you should pay.

    --
    chris herbst, near chicago








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    Level of expertise needed for exhaust repairs? 200

    For a fraction of that you could replace the whole system in about an hour yourself.

    I did my wife's gas burner in about 45 minuits , half of that time spent running inside to warm my hands up (mid winter).

    I should have just done the exhaust on my '84diesel last week, but I let my wife talk me into not overworking myself, and wound up spending half a day waiting around in the heat, and having to go back twice for them to get it right. It would have been faster and cheaper (and easier on my blood pressure ) to do it myself.
    --
    -------Robert, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel , '80 245 diesel








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    Level of expertise needed for exhaust repairs? 200

    For a universal fir cat ( recommended and a lot cheaper) call kevin at Muffler King on Garland Rd. You can tell me I referred you and no I don't work for them nor gets commissions. I have been dealing with them since '88 and they do a great job at reasonable prices. The # is 214-328-4669. If you want to do it yourself email me and I refer you to a Houston supplier of direct fit CAT.. Good luck and keep us informed.








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    Level of expertise needed for exhaust repairs? 200

    All you need is a metric socket set and a can of PBBlaster for rusted bolts/nuts. For $950, you`d be able to put in a stainless steel complete exhaust system plus a new o2 sensor if you wanted to. Check vendor prices linked to this site. Good luck.

    JS `86 245 209k Central CT








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    Level of expertise needed for exhaust repairs? 200

    It seems rather steep for some exhaust work....anyhow, are you 101% sure that the cat converter's falling apart? The heat shield's known to rust and fall aprt causing the same rattle you mentioned (did it on mine until it fell off), but the cat's still doing it's job. As for the front pipe, I too have a few holes which I patched up using the exahust repair putty and Campbell's soup can. It's a temporary fix till I replace it during the summer. I will attempt to replace it without a flame torch, although al lot of people highly recommend it! I do have a dremel tool, which could come handy. The front pipe's $75-80 or so.

    Cheers,
    SM
    --
    90 BMW 325is, 98 BMW 528i, 90 Volvo 240DL








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      Level of expertise needed for exhaust repairs? 200

      The only difficult bit is likely to be getting the 3 manifold to pipe nuts off without finding the threads on the studs are damaged or corroded. Put Plus gas or whatever on well before you start. Don't force the nuts - when you get a bit of movement squirt on some more gas and work it backwards and forwards until you can turn it completely. If the nut rounds-off or won't budge, you can try hacking out the gasket from the side and then moving the flange up a bit. That gives you access for more gas from the other end of the thread, and the socket a better chance of biting.
      Or it may just undo with no trouble. I'd get the nuts free before taking the rest of the pipework off in case you need to keep using the car.







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