I am replacing front shocks on my 1988 745 TIC and have two questions. My Haynes says to use a C spanner on the nut that holds the shock inside the strut but my C spanner is way too small. I was thinking tonight over a bear, maybe a pipewrench could be used. Can anyone confirm this is a good idea? Also, in my Haynes on the picture it looks like they are undoing the bolt clockwise instead of anticlockwise, is that right? Do I undo this nut clockwise?

Also, I did the rear shocks and springs yesterday and today I found one of those plastic round things that sit between the chassis and the spring rubber on the rear. I must have forgotten to fit that, does that matter? Are these really important?
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George Holmer, Belgium, Europe, 1987 745 GLE Turbo Diesel Intercooler (D24TIC/M46) 200k; 1988 745 Turbo Intercooler (B230FT/M46) 290k; 1988 745 GL (B200E/M47) 190k

Pipe wrenches are fine, just be careful not to slip/slide them.
One additional tip...do not tryÊtoÊremove the abs sensor from the spindle...just disconnect the abs cable from its connector inside the car and snake the cable out the engine compartment when you take off the strut.

While you have the strut off, check the strut bearings...some can be cleaned and lubricated if you can see the bearings/balls. Use a waterproof preferably synthetic wheel bearing grease.

Now would also be a good time to replace the ball joints if the rubbers are torn or the car has more than 100K on it...if you unbolt the ball joint from the strut you don't have to worry about the abs cable either. The rotor disc and calipers generally have to be removed. Now would be a good time to clean up that sensor wheel for the abs too. Ê

while you're down there, look at the swaybar link bushings and consider replacing the cone bushings on the radius rods to the lower support arm.

I am intending to replace the balljoints and the bearings but am hindered by a multitude of stuck bolts.. we will see what I can do. I have replaced the the control arm stay bushings but I wonder about the other too on the control arm, how do I get them in and out? Hammer or do I need a press?

George
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George Holmer, Belgium, Europe, 1987 745 GLE Turbo Diesel Intercooler (D24TIC/M46) 200k; 1988 745 Turbo Intercooler (B230FT/M46) 290k; 1988 745 GL (B200E/M47) 190k

You'll need a press to get those out or a cobbled puller using a threaded rod and washers and sockets. I wouldn't replace those unless they're visibly damaged/worn.

BTW...I just finished putting in my Bilstein strut inserts. Make damn sure you get the gland nut (the BF nut that comes with the Bilstein inserts) tight and the insert bottomed. I had trouble on the passenger side getting them tight enough....the driver's side was a snap. Make sure you lubricate the gland nut threads in the strut with antiseize past. One, so you can get the gland nut in there far enough, and two, so the next poor sod can get it out without 600ft-lbs of torque.

I used twp pipe wrenches and four foot cheater bars.

I also have a torquemeister gland nut wrench on order from IPD. For the next time I have to fool with bilstein struts.

I used a pipe wrench when I did mine -- it worked fine. Infact, I used a second pipe wrench to hold the tube.
I completely removed the assembly from the car and set it in a vice before removing the spring. (it only requires that you remove the ball joint and brake caliper) When I'm working in tight spots or hunched over, I tend to rush -- and I don't want to rush when I'm working with a compressed spring. I dodged a bullet (or should I say spring) once, and I'd prefer not to repeat it.

Jeff Pierce
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'92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '93 945 Turbo (a kickass family car), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece)

I've always used a pipe wrench, on or off the car.
You don't heed to remove the strut; it will only rotate so far, and the car acts as quite a counterhold. The bear and some PBlaster might come in handy, as well.
The threads are normal right hand threads, CCW to remove.

If the gland nut is not stuck, you can probably get it with a large pipe wrench. I found with the strut still attached at the bottom and swung to the side, you have a heck of a time getting any torque on the nut as the strut assembly flops around. A pipe wrench would work better with the strut removed and held in a vice. The easiest way is to tap it unscrewed with a large cold chisel with the cutting edge ground flat and a heavy hammer. Soak it with PBlaster good and wait half hour before trying. If it's really stuck, all bets are off and your're in for a long afternoon. Good luck.

bl

Why don't you get the 'bear' to help...between you, I'll bet you can develop a lot of torque...Good Luck...Dennis

Indeed but he is a bit grumpy at the moment.
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George Holmer, Belgium, Europe, 1987 745 GLE Turbo Diesel Intercooler (D24TIC/M46) 200k; 1988 745 Turbo Intercooler (B230FT/M46) 290k; 1988 745 GL (B200E/M47) 190k