My 88 240 dl sedan has power from battery to lights,radio and all but no crank from starter... nothing. Is there a good way to check where the problem is before I spend a lot of money on a new starter?

You could try using the "remote starter switch" method to bypass most of the ignition circuit.

With the ignition key out, I think if you short the post that has the lead from the + terminal of the battery with the post on the solenoid that has yellow wire (from the gray connector on the firewall) you should be able to engage the starter.

Anyone want to confirm?
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'80..245..M46...b21a..SU carb..

The starter has connections from the battery and from the ignition key. With the key out, reach down there with a large flat tip screwdriver. Short the two connections together.

(1) The starter cranks off like normal. Meaning? Neutral/park switch out of whack, and/or the ignition switch is not making contact.

(2) There are sparks, but not a great welder-type TZZAP of sparks. Meaning? The solenoid coil is OK, but the solenoid armature is dirtied up enough to not move. Action: The other post mentioned tapping with a hammer while holding the key in "Start". Easier if you use a long rod, such as a number of 1/2 inch socket extensions or a length of Re-bar. tap Tap TAp TAP TAPP! The armature may come free and allow the starter to operate. Still need to clean up that problem, which means removing the starter. Allow plenty time and GoJo.

(3) Nothing happens. Try it a lot to be sure. If you are sure, no sparks no nothin', it means the solenoid coil is open and will have to be replaced.

That all I can add. Hope it helps.

Bob

>:)

Bob Thanks you the man. I knew there was a McGuyver trick for this. Thanks Sean

Assuming it's an automatic, try moving the shifter (or have someone else move it) while turning the key to START. Hold the key in START and move the shifter down from Park a little, and also try it in Neutral. The neutral safety switch may well be out of adjustment. This could require the switch to be repositioned, or, a lot of times the transmission rear mount goes bad, and the shift linkage is a little out of line. Then the P position on the switch doesn't quite agree with the detent in the transmission, and you get this problem.
Check for that before adjusting or replacing anything else.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M46- 220K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K, 88 244GL 145K

Got a voltmeter?
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George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma

tap the starter with a hammer while you are cranking sometimes the solenoid will stick. Just crank and tap.