Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

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544 update questions 444-544

Hey guys
I am sure these have been covered, I went back and searched but couldnt find exactly what I was looking for. I have a 1 family owner 63 544. I want to upgrade the brakes and rear axel/brakes. I have axcess to a 63 P1800 parts car and several 140/240 cars. Can I use the front brakes off the P1800 and can I put a 140/240 complete rear axel in my 544.

Sorry if this has been covered, I am new to this board.

Thanks

Bavman25








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544 update questions 444-544

See 544 Brickboard list for May 31, 2002 on John Parker's Ford axle and drum conversion. This procedure keeps the 544 axle housing and gears, but grafts on 60's-70's Ford axle housing ends, drum brakes, and axle shafts. Benefits and details are described in VClassics archives at http://www.vclassics.com/archive/ford_drums.htm

A different approach is to adapt in an early Ford Ranger pickup rear axle complete with brakes, with track dimension reduced and welding on suitable fittings for the 544's suspension arms and Panhard rod. As was related to me by another contributor, "Purchased a 1990 Ford Ranger 3.45 ratio rear end for $150.00. The drivers side axle is 3 inches longer than the passenger side. I will get another passenger side axle and have the housing narrowed on the driver side and this will yeild a 53 1/2 inch wide hub to hub width. The stock axle in my volvo is 54 1/2 inches hub to hub. Should be able to get 6" wheels under it with this combo." Later he reported, "I just got back from Moser Engineering in Portland, Indiana with my cut down
rear end. Cost $52.00 which included removing the old axle bearings,
welding up a small hole in the axle tube and cutting to size and rewelding
the end back on."

Other ratios were available for Rangers. His '61 544 project however should work with the 3:45:

"My Volvo is being built for reliability and fuel economy. I have swapped in
a 4 cylinder from a Chevy S10 with the 5 speed. I am going to replace the
differential with a Ford to match the stock bolt pattern and have it cut
down for proper width. This has been the easiest engine/trans swap I have
ever done."








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544 update questions 444-544

I'm in the middle of putting 122 disc brakes on the front of my PV. (really, no farther than having the 122 parts sitting on my garage floor near the PV). That isn't quite a bolt on procedure, but it is pretty close. The theory is you strip the PV down to the bare spindle, removing the drum brake back plate. Then you strip the 122 donor down to the bare spindle as well. Then, although the bolt holes on the caliper mount don't really line up too well with the PV spindle you can redrill the caliper mount and dust shield and put them on. Then the 122 rotor and hub fit the PV spindle normally. And the caliper goes on. Voila'!

Side issues:
1) Shock absorber clearance - with the caliper hanging off the back of the rotor now it will hit the shock absorber well before reaching steering lock. The option I've gone with is to unbolt the shock mount bolts and reverse them, so the shock mounts on the front. Then there is a slight clearance problem at full lock with the steering arm and the bottom shock mount. You can cut and weld the shock mount bolt at an angle so it points inward slightly to provide the proper clearance. Other options I've seen/heard of are to replace the shock absorber with a 122/144 style one running up the middle of the spring or to swap sides on the calipers and mount them to the front of the rotor, sort of in a 10 oclock position when looking at the driver's side.

2) Minor niggles with the brake lines. I haven't worked that out yet, I just plan on taking a few parts into a parts store and hope to be able to find a hard line to go from the caliper to the dust shield flex line mount, and hook to a flex line that will go the the original hard line on the PV.

There isn't really much wrong with the drum brakes, they were a little over-specced on a 90 HP 2200 lb car. I was perfectly happy with mine for years until I gradually upped the HP in my car to (just guessing) around 170. Now it's not so incredibly hard to overheat and fade the brakes.

As for the rear axle the issue is a bit clouded by the PV's odd handling of axle twist. 122's and all later cars used two trailing arms on each side to locate the arms and handle the torque twist. But the PV just uses two diagonal arms that go from near the wheels to the center of the driveshaft tunnel as well as a couple of short links off the top of the differential forward to nearly the same spot as the arms. (As well as a Panhard rod in a pretty normal location). Those mountson the top of the differential would be the hardest thing to fabricate on a newer donor axle that doesn't have them. I'm not sure how well it would work if you just left those off and instead more firmly attached the axle to the two diagonal arms, so that any axle twist is just channeled into them. I think the 444 models were built like that, I'm not sure why they added them to the 544 models. Another issue would be the location of the panhard rod mount. I once put a 142E rear axle into a '63 122s and had to remove and replace that as it was on the wrong side. Monior quibbles like brake lines and diff flanges would be child's play after resolving the axle links. As well as the different bolt pattern on 1800E/140/240 axles. And is there a track difference as well - might it be a bit too wide for the PV?








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544 update questions 444-544

As John says front discs from 1800 are a fairly simple job, mine worked perfectly on the PV with no further modifications required.
Re 140 rear axle, sure it will fit, on my other car we raised the floor under the back seat and fabricated new mounting points for all four arms, the panhard rod mount needed minor modification, springs lined up with original turrets, axle is not too wide but only just. this was a major job, we also fitted 140 front suspension so wheel bolt patterns match and track is the same front to rear, the 140 track is about 100mm wider than the PV, you can see some photo's here
http://volvoadventures.com/544PVHans.html
Re 75 B20, it will bolt straight in, if you can't/don't want to use sidedrafts weber/delorttos use SU's.
Regards
Hans







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