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'Nother Rust situation... 200 1984

I noticed that the rubber around my rear windows in the wagon made an unusual "crunching" sound when I pressed on it.
I pulled up on the rubber and noticed that there is nasty rust underneath, along the bottom of the window. I tried scraping it as best I could with a screwdriver and then sprayed it with rust-fix. I doubt that my method will last very long so do you think I'm gonna have to remove the whole window/seal assemlby and give it a good scraping or something?
I'm sure some of you have experienced this before. Any tips are welcome as always.
Thank you
Oliver
--
1984 245 coming back to life as a sport wagon ; )








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rust is my life!!!! anyway, easy solution but not ShowCar: 200 1984


Got the same thing in my two year ago $500 'beater'.

I like my car and it's usually been good to me. But why it was only $500 is due to reasons of Rust. It's the death knell of most cars, of the Volvo vintage anyway, as their motors are so dependable and fixable.

rust under window seals of three rear windows of my 245 (incl. hatch rear window)... Pretty much rusted through and the prior owner tried to use Spray insulation Foam....Totally Sucked!! (do not use that 'sh*t')... I removed the useless foam and 'kitty haired' larger holes and bondoed them...(all on inside sills of windows...but not very 'structural' i'll admit. )


Okay, I am not a welder and these cars are still pretty common. You want a showcar? Get a better cared for model with low mileage from a low rust area of the country (newer 240s have galv. bodies and 'better' window treatment. ).

But, I am with you. Save the money and do the best with less...but in my case I wouldn't waste time taking out windows and seals unless you've got amazing patience, and lots of time and chancing that seals need to be replaced and maybe a window or two will get broken in the muscleing needed to be done to get 'em out. And major spot welding is going to happen, And Paint the whole car while you're at it. Instead for a quick result, use the Black PL Urethane sealant I've mentioned before for where rubber meets metal... But the Most simply necessary thing to do is to seal up the gaps between rubber seals and glass. That's were the water comes into to rust the metal "sill" areas. GE Silicone Clear caulk worked for me. As for fixing the rust. Take out the liners of rear area and patch the best you can from underneigh with that black gunk I mentioned. Large rust areas perhaps slip some galv. sheet metal and rivet it.. but that's got to be only for large areas. (So it's not perfect?) Anyway. that's the cheap and easy. You simply must seal the area between glass and seal... that's the one simple way I've stopped the leaking in my car. You just have to do a neat job on the clear silicone caulking and it doesn't even show (Unless it was a show car) .








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rust is my life!!!! anyway, easy solution but not ShowCar: 200 1984

OK thanks. Luckilly its summertime and our fabulous northwest rainy season is on vacation for a while.
Its no show car by any stretch....


well for now ;)

Oliver
--
1984 245 coming back to life as a sport wagon ; )







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