I'm installing a T-5 Mustang transmission in my '74 145 using V-Performance.com's (John Parker's) adapter plate.

I thought I should write out some notes, and here's as good a place as any...
Mine isn't in the road yet, so some of these things may not work out like I hope, but I've been pretty careful, if a little inventive.

T5 specifications and information are available at several Mustang web sites.
Try www.fordmuscle.com.

I got a T-5 from a '87 T-Bird turbo coupe, which has slightly closer ratios than a 5.0L Mustang. Additional differences are a slightly longer (.25") input shaft and more significantly, a longer Front Bearing Retainer tube. These were usually made OEM of aluminum. The throwout bearing slides along this shaft.
On this model, the tube had to be shortened about 1/2 inch to clear the clutch plate when it was all bolted together. I actually used a large tubing cutter to shorter it, saving a minor disassembly, or avoiding hacksaw tailings. Steel bearing retainers are a common retrofit and widely available.

Other parts you need:

Output sliding flange/yoke from T5 Mustang.
Pilot bearing to match the tranny. 5.0 input shafts fits volvo pilots. 2.3L shafts require Mustang 2.3L bearing, which fits in Volvo crank.
8.5" clutch plate from a 2.3L Mustang. Got at Napa.
Mustang throwout bearing. Larger I.D.
Shifter and handle to fit T5 (OEM or aftermarket)
7/16 hex bolts.
1/8" square tubing - 2 inches long
3/8 (brass) plumbing nipple

Getting the throwout bearing to fit well took a little grinding off the ends of the Volvo clutch fork pins. The pins on the Volvo clutch fork are about 1/2" diameter cylinders. The Mustang bearing has about 3/4" space at the waist, leaving 1/4" to make up to avoid rattling. The clutch for pins must be shortened just slightly (2-3 mm) to allow the bearing waist to fit between them.

My solution was to procure some small squarish brass plumbing fittings that , drill them through to fit the Volvo clutch fork pins, and shorten them to length. When the bearing is inserted between them, there is negligible play. I hope the brass will help avoid binding. There seems to be enough material all around the pin to be strong enough for this load. If they fail, they are small enough, I hope, not to interfere. I wanted to make bronze guides, but couldn't find material nearby.

The adapter plate consists of 2 parts, and is very nicely machined BTW. A stepped ring is supplied to fit the bellhousing and align the adapter plate precisely with the bellhousing, instead of relying solely on the bolt holes.

I would recommend a preliminary assembly WITHOUT the pressure plate to allow visual inspection of the pilot bearing and clearances to the bearing retainer.

Replace the clutch fork boot before mouting the adapter plate. (BTW I made a custom one out of leather, couldn't wait for shipment.) Mount adapter to bellhousing first, then slide in tranny.

Of course this is all more easily done on the bench. I wanted to paint the engine bay, so it worked out for me. It's not a one day swap, unless you're really determined and can get a driveshaft built overnight.

The speedometer hookup I'm just taking a guess at... The T-5 came with a combination electronic/mechanical pickup, with the mechanical part plugged off.
With the pickup removed tranny fluid will pour from the hole, but when it's in place with the plug taken out, it doesn't, so I'm assuming it won't leak. It'll drive my volvo speedometer, although the ratio may be different. We'll see, said the blind man...

To connect the two, I made a ~2" extension of the cable, using small brass square tube (available at better hobby supply stores), brazed to a short sectio of square steel stock ~3/32". I hope it holds. A 3/8 brass NPT nipple screwed into the plastic housing of the speedo pickup seems to allow the cable nut to be secured. I will cover the whole assembly with a section of hose with clamps or ties.

I dropped the assembled engine and tranny in place last night, and lo, the shifter appears exactly in the middle of the shifter hole.

So what remains are the rear tranny mount, which I can see will take an intermediate piece, and then measuring for the driveshaft and convincing the shop to mate this gigantic Mustang spider to my dainty Volvo spider.

I hope this works okay, because I've pretty much used up my allotment of Volvo wrenching hours this year. The 8-bolt b20 I removed is a perfect candidate for a performance rebuild, though.

And then I was wondering how pretentious it might be to put a T5 emblem on the tailgate...

Worked on the rear transmission mount tonight. A simple piece of 2" angle iron, drilled at each end and on the other face in the middle to accept the rubber tranny mount. Bent it (pounded) somewhat acute angle to match face of crossmember.
Bolted it all together and it was way too tight against the body. I may need to drill a lower center hole in the crossmember, but then there are other interference problems.

There's a sort of vibration damper on the back end of the T5, ended up having to remove it for clearance. Be sure to remove it before installing the tranny, bad corrosion froze the small bolts. If I need it later I can figure out how to add it back in.

Also there is a harmonic dampener ring mounted in rubber around the T5 sliding yoke, making it about 5 inches in diameter. As is, it won't fit through the welded tunnel brace, and would appear to prevent getting the driveshaft in there at all. Also caused rubbing against the tunnel. Without the ring it is close to the same size as the volvo spider. I will see what the driveshaft shop recommends. Measured the flange to seal at 50" When I get the driveshaft finished I will resume with the rear mount.

Disregard the previous speedometer part. The plastic end got ponged off when I was lowering in the engine, but the revealed parts seem actually more workable.
As long as it doesn't leak.

ATTENTION PLEASE NOTE: The clutch fork pivot end must be remounted approximately 1 inch ahead of the stock position. Before mounting the adaptor plate, remove the pivot bolt, and replace it with a ~2" bolt. I backed the bolt with 3 washers and 2 nuts, then scewed on the fork with pivot.

I learned it the hard way: had to remove the tranny and bellhousing from under the car. I'm pretty good at it all now. Please ask questions.

It runs great. Gearbox is quieter than OEM, 1st gear just a smidge lower, makes for easier starting from second (Very common here in the land of rolling stops).

Cruises now in the fast lane nicely. No speedometer yet, but it flies

This is a highly recommended re-fit.

Please feel free to email with any or all questions. mpergiel@hotmail.com
I have several digital pics. I will get around to fixing/annotating and will psot them as time becomes available.

Engine and tranny are secured in place. Very happy with the position and supports.

There are an extra set of tranny cross-member bolt holes in the frame, about 8 inches rearward. These may be for the BW35 or M41, are perfect for the T5.

With the angle iron support mounted to the tranny, and a rubber tranny mount bolted to it, I was just able to line up the holes by squeezing the rubber mount with a c-clamp. Its actually easier to mount the crossmember loosely to the frame, with only one of the upper bolts (through the angle iron mount) in place. Squeeze the rubber by clamping the the rubber between the angle iron and crossmember, then the bolt hole become reachable. One of the t5 alloy holes is stripped, requiring a nut on the top, so it was shoved into place.

You may have to remove a wedge of material from one side of the rubber to get it to fit the angle iron mount. I used 1.75" iron (had it handy). 2" should work without a problem.

The outer dampening ring of the yoke came off easily, after I sawz-alled it in half. The yoke slipe easily through the welded crossmember hole, and just slid into the tranny output bushing. Seems to have plenty of clearance, at least a finger's width all aound the rubber mount and bolted crossmember. Front engine mounts are right in line.

Driveshaft shortened to 50" (be sure to measure your own), rewelded, installed new spider mating it to T5 yoke, balanced, and back from the shop this morning $122.00.

Will replace rear tranny seal tonight, and install driveshaft.

From here is looks just like reassembly, the speedo thing looks much easier now actually, and I might easily cobble that together by merely joining the ends with a section of clamped hose.

Unknowns at this point: vibration, interference, mechanical condition, noise, speedo error, clutch actuation, effect of 2 spline driveshaft, choosing a shift knob.

Other thoughts: This was originally a 1973 B20f/BW35. Had to procure Bellhousing/shiftfork and 6-bolt flywheel, thanks out to Shayne. Didn't bother to change to neoprene rear main seal.

There are many of us out there I'm sure who're immeasurebly thankful to have your
experience in this swap, those of us who have a BW35 will find this infomation invaluable. A supercharged B20 would likely depstroy a BW 35 in short order, or so I'm told. Thank you.

Very interested here as well. I wouldn't mind a nice relatively cheap 5 speed in my PV either (although I already have gone to considerable effort to put in a junkyard M41 - complete with non-op 1st and 3rd syncros...).

From my experience ('72 1800E, '73 145E) even a non-supercharged but exuberantly (not abusively) driven B20 can make a BW35 cry uncle in just 3 - 6 months.

"From my experience ('72 1800E, '73 145E) even a non-supercharged but exuberantly (not abusively) driven B20 can make a BW35 cry uncle in just 3 - 6 months."

Ha ha ha. True 'dat!

I be one of those w/ BW35 and tightly-crossed fingers reading UNIBERP's threads with great interest ! Also short on time and budget for dear old Volvo.

Actually am currently down with B20B head in shop for refurbishment w/ new valves and probable addition of seats.

Thanks, UNIBERP ! Keep up the good work.

Later,
Al