Hey everyone, I'm going to be replacing the clutch in my wife's '85 240 wagon in the next two weeks. I have the repair manual and have done all the work on my cars (BMWs) and all the work so far on the Volvo, but have never done a clutch on any of them. I understand everything in the manual and know what I'm doing, but just wanted to know if there are any tips from others who have done it before. Thanks.
-Josh

Get some help on this one.

The most difficult job of all was to pulling the transmission down and putting it back in place. You will have to move your transmission (heavy!) to get it aligned to the rear engine block or it will not go in.

I would return NAPA clutch and get Sachs.
I never used NAPA clutch, but you can't go wrong with Sachs clutch. You need to do some risk management, dropping transmission is not something you want to repeat when things start to go wrong.

Good responses so far. I asked the same question when I did mine and someone told me that it was much easier to re-install the transmission at an angle while pushing it up into the tunnel then once you're about home, rotate it into place. It was good advice and even though my M46 was balanced on a floor jack for the installation, it went right back in easilly that way.
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Bob W.
15 Volvos ('58-'91)
445-544-122-240-740

A common hurtle are the top bolts on the bellhouse. The top one is best removed through the gear stick opening from inside the car using sufficient extention pieces (stick removed etc). Also ensure you release the exhaust, else the gearbox/engine will not tilt down far enought for access.

While I was there I replaced a few gearstick link bits (cheap), the engine speed sensor (insulation split), main seal, pilot bearing and topped up the gearbox oil over the fillup point.

On the down side I seem to have a small oil leak now, bit I guess it is gearbox oil - I must ahve topped it up too much.

Have fun

Jorn Oslo Norway

Buy a good OEM (Sachs) clutch. Absolutely don't buy one from AutoZone. I went the 'Zone route when I did the clutch on my 87 245, and although it was cheap, had a lifetime warranty, and was in stock at my local store, it was horrible. It never engaged solidly, and would slip going uphill in 4th or 5th gear regularly. I did manage to drive it over 15k miles like that, even pulling a tow dolly, but I learned a thing or 2 about babying a clutch with my BMW 2002.

Make sure the throwout arm pivots/slide are well greased. Likewise a little dab of grease in the pilot bearing would help extend its life.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K

I'd replace the rear main engine seal while you have the trans out.
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philvo

Well I got the clutch (plate, throw out bearing, and disk) from NAPA. The reason is that my dad gets 35% off all parts and I've never heard of NAPA's parts going bad or being bad. Tomorrow I'll go look at the brand but I don't believe it's Sachs (with it was). How hard and long is it to replace rear engine seal, and front gearbox seal? Oh yeah, I know about hard to reach trans bolts. On my BMW E30 I was pulling the engine out and didn't have enough extensions to reach the two top bolts and ended up taking the trans out with it. :) Will NOT make that mistake this time. THanks for all the tips. It'll be that much easier.
-Josh