Finished replacing the wheele cylinders on the front of my 1964 PV 544--easier than I thought it would be since it was the first time I have done drum brakes (I'v done my own brakes but on a string of Volvos and Saabs with disk brakes). I took out key and took the big nut off. My Clymer manual shows a tool SVO 1791 being used to get the hub (rear brake drum) off. Fat chace I'm going to find a SVO 1791 around here. What kind of alternative tool or procedure is used on that kind of drum now days?

Mike

Picture of the rear hub on my 1964 PV 544 that I am trying to get off so I can put on a new whell cylinder.

This is the kind of puller you need. You hit the spinner with a hammer to tighten and can also hit the end of the shaft as well. Take the nut off, reverse and screw it back on so the end of the shaft is relatively flush - this will prevent (hopefully) the shaft from mushrooming.

This task is one place where you can't always make the part cooperate through brute force. If they are incredibly stubborn just leave the puller on as tight as you can get it overnight or for a few hours. Also a bigger hammer used more gently will be more effective than a small hammer hit harder.

Hi Mike,
I had trouble removing my rear hubs on my 58 444 and could not locate a puller localy. I fabricated one using some heavy wall tubing and a steel plate. The steel plate bolts up to the hub and using the center of a wheel puller and the bolt, it applies pressure against the axle shaft while pulling evenly against the hub. I repalced the axle assembly on my PV444 with a Ford Ranger rear end as I am the guy that put a Buick V6 in my Volvo. I no longer need the puller and you are welcome to it all you have to do is pay the shipping from Zip Code 48843 (Detroit area)I also have two brand new rear wheel cyls for the 444, I had to pay $ 40.00 each for them and they were in the car for about two weeks. I don't know if they will interchange with the 544 or not but you can have them both for $35.00 if you are interested. My email is : dpflynn@tir.com I use Earthlink Spam blocker and you have to be on my "Allowed Sender List" in order to get through to me, send me an email and it will bounce back to you but will notify me you are trying to reach me, I can then add you to the list and we can communicate.
Email me and I can send you a couple of pictures of the puller so yu know what I am talking about.
Also I am leaving early Sat. morning for the Tetons and will be gone for two weeks. Let me know before I go and I can send what you want before I leave.
Warning... DO NOT USE A BOLT ON THE END OF THE SHAFT AND HIT IT WITH A HAMMER LIKE THEY DID ON THE OLD CHRYSLER PRODUCTS AS IT WILL RUIN YOUR AXLE) Also put plenty of WD40 on the hub before trying to remove it.
Dennis Flynn

Take a look at Dennis's PV V-6 conversion folks:

http://www.swedishclassics.com/cgi-bin/swedish/wwwboard/messages/20270.html

Mike;

You need to use (the correct) puller, and possibly some excessive, but controlled force. This subject has been covered extensively before (use site search), also see notes at: http://www.intelab.com/swem/service%20notes.htm#Braking%20System

Cheers

Hub puller. JC Whitney has one. The kind you can whack with a 5 lb hammer.

Check your local tool rental place and ask for a hub puller for a four wheel drive jeep with inboard drums.
That way they won't make the face at you when you tell them it is for your classic swede.
-e

Thanks everybody. I found the hub puller in the J.C. Whitney catalog and thought I would see if I could find one in my town of 40,000. I went to the three biggest auto parts stores that rent tools and none of them sold or rented the tool like the one in the J.C. Whitney catalog. But one of the palces said if anyone has one it would probably be the tractor supply/machine shop. The tractor place did have one that he would loan me. It is exactly like the one in John's picture above. I have one wheel alreay done (put on new wheel cylinder). I have the other hub/drum off and will replace that wheel cylinder after work tomorrow. It does really require that puller and when it finally lets go you get a big "POP". It isn't all that bad if you have the right tool and right procedure.

Thanks again Brickers.

Mike

Put a bit of never sieze on that taper prior to replacing the drum/hub. It will come off easier next time.