I have been wrenching on my cars and doing brake work for years. Along the way I have learnt never to crack open a brake line unless I have replacement calipers or drum slaves because no matter what i do they always seem to shear. Using extractors usualy just makes thing worse as they break off in the hole.

Anyone have a brilliant tip for me?

This is not only for my 120, same thing with 245 and my VW Eurovan.

Thanks as always for your collective help, Patrick.

I just soak repeatedly with Aero-Kroil for a few days ahead of time, tapping the end with a hammer at each soaking. If they don't feel like the're going to come out without twisting, I'll soak them some more.
Then after they're open, flush the daylights out of the brake fluid to get all of the penetrant that seeped through , out.
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel

Patrick;

If you didn't do the smart thing and anti-seize all the fitting and bleeding nipples in sight when the components were installed, which would make this a no-worry-operation, pretreat with a penetrating solvent/oil well before you before you need to loosen them...like Liquid Wrench (old school) or PB Blaster (new school...I have little experience with it, but one sees it recommended here often), and days before you plan to actually do the work.

Do not use an open-end wrench which only contacts on two faces and can round a stubborn bleeding nipple, but use a box-end wrench...and 6pointer is better than 12...some "feeling" when applying force to the wrench is also called for...

"Brilliant Tip": If you are able to loosen the bleeding nipple without damaging it, remove, and anti-seize the threads and seat before reinstallation and bleeding procedure.

Good Luck

Well it's a good tip, but I already do it. I've tried the usual LW for a week before, even some heat and tapping, but when it's bleeder that has never been opened by me before they always break and it is pissing me off.

Not much else to be done. If it's clearly old as the hills I'll assume I'm replacing them. Provides a kind of liberty for removal. I use a 6-pt box-end, apply a healthy amount of turning force, and simultaneously pop the bleeder tip with a hammer. The combination of forces has worked reliably.

Yes, good penetrant each day before the job is cheap help.

Dave

I was told to hit them end on with a small to medium ballpein hammer (like you are trying to drive them further in). Be careful, but hit it hard enough to deform the tip a little- you are going to go buy nice new zinc-chromated ones from Napa, etc when you are done. Then use a 6 point socket.

Background- I haven't done a ton of these, but so so far this is working 100%. I've gone so far as to remove calipers so as to bring them to a better place to hit them. This hitting breaks the bond on the threads.
Remember when torquing on 'em, in or out, that the "bolt" size gives you a deceptively high impression of their strength, which means nothing because they are hollow...obvious, I know, but worth mentioning.
A rule of thumb is that most bleeder screws have the same thread diameter as the wrench size used. 1/4-28 is the most common size through to late 70's.
A 6 point socket, with a short, tight fitting extension, minimizes side loading over all other wrenching methods.

Thanks to everyone I guess I'll just keep praying and maybe hit them a little harder.

Patrick, a healthy whack is good but applying turning force at the same time does wonders. Be sure to hit it straight on. If you strike a glancing blow you'll weaken the bleeder, or could even shear it off.

Dave