Provided it doesn't rain tomorrow, I'll put the set I got from IPD on.

I suppose my initial apprehension about doing this was the fact that this is the brake system, and if there's anything you don't want to screw up, it's the brakes, (but you'd think I would know better by now...)

And yes, I have done the Heater Motor on this beast before... In fact, it's been almost one year since I did it.

Thanks again everyone. I guess you can do just about any job with a manual and the help of Brickboard.

It's really easy. You will have to detach the rear calipers via 2 bolts on it's backside and slide it out of the way. A coat hanger to hold it up to the spring or frame to keep from kinking the brake line and one 10mm bolt on the rotor that holds on the rotor. You may have to give the rotor a tap with a hammer if it's rusted on. It should just fall off (watch your toes).
Ben

Yes, go for it.
One few things I want to add:
when installing new rotors, clean them with Brake cleaner

When taking the caliper out, don't let it hang by line. Use a stiff metal wire to hang or rest it on top of a jack stand.

I agree with the "go for it" responses, but feel that you should first invest in the Bentley 240 manual. Yes, it's for '83 to ''93 cars, but the the brakes are tha same back to '76 (except for ABS), and the B21F is well-covered in the Turbo section. Same for basic electrics, suspension, transmission, and much more. Plus it's well organized and indexed.

One suggestion on rotor removal — I've found it easier to get the caliper out of the way if the "tank guard" (?) weight is removed first (one 17mm bolt. The same size as he caliper bolts.) Have a 10" or 12" length of coat hanger wire ready to hang the caliper from a spring coil.

Don't remove the brake line. There's enough "give" to the copper line, just don't get too violent with it.

The advantage of the Bentley, or even the (ugh) Haynes manual is that you can have it right there as you work. Not so easy with the monitor.
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Now gone)
'83 Turbo 245
'73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--and still here)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

"I don't think that changing the rotors my self would be the best idea, unless it's an insanely easy job. "
I thought by now you'd realize the rumours that "Volvo's are hard to work on" are LIES. (Excepting blower motor, of course. But then again, you've worked on the blower motor already. Haven't you?). So, what's your prob?

Remove the two caliper bolts (helps if you have a 2lb+ hammer to do the tapping) and move caliper to side (suspend with something). Remove 10mm bolt holding rotor to lug plate. Pull rotor. If rotor is being held on by drum pads, try adjusting the star wheel (my '80 has them) through the hole in the rotor to release pad grip. Also, loosening adjuster bolt at base of parking brake (accessible by removing ashtray) may help.

If you still can't pull the rotor, try reaching in through the hole and unhooking the springs.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

Very very easy. Remove the little retaining bolt and coax the rotor off. No one should ever have to pay to have this done.