Morning folks,

I knew I shouldn't have done it as soon as I slammed the trunk lid.

The trunk wouldn't lock electrically with the other doors, so I was trying to figure how it worked. The arm that comes from the black box right of the latch was moving but not far enough. I found and flipped a lever near the latch and then made the mistake of closing the trunk. It was locked. Now I can't unlock it. The previous owner is searching for a trunk key, but I don't hold much hope for that.

So, how do I unlock the trunk without a key and with the electric lock not functioning?


Thanks in advance from RT in Amarillo

Good news. Those who suspected my key was a valet key were right. I have a duplicate made using a master blank (a few bucks at Home Depot). It worked in the trunk lock. I can lock and unlock the trunk with the duplicate key; however, the electric trunk lock still doesn't work when I lock the doors.

Thanks to all who helped solve this mystery.

RT in Amarillo

Along with the others, I think you have the valet key - I've found that most key shops, hardware stores, etc. only carry or use the valet blank instead of the master blanks.

The difference is in the thickness of the rib which runs the length of the key on either side - the valet key has a thicker rib (i.e., sticks out farther from the key centerline), and won't go into the narrower keyway designed for the trunk & glovebox. The notches on both edges of the keys are identical between the valet & master keys - the only difference is in the overall thickness of the key; this way the master will go in everywhere, while the valet key will only go into the locks with the wider keyway.

Three solutions come to mind:
1 - get a master key made at the dealer
2 - find a key shop who has the master blanks
3 - get out a dremel tool & CAREFULLY grind down the ribs on the side of a spare key until it'll fit the trunk lock - make sure all filings are cleaned off before trying the key... (Remember, you'r not grinding on the notched edges, but the ribs on the side of the key!)

This is based upon my findings on my '86 740 - I think it should also be applicable to the 240, though. Also, this assumes that the trunk lock has not been changed somewhere in the past...

--
Tom Harper ('86 740GLE; NØMKC; Denver, Colorado)

The one key I have will work in ignition and doors, but I can only insert it about 1/2 inch into the trunk lock. So Jim, I don't think it's the valet key.

rhaire, the key won't insert. I may have to resort to tunnel access and disconnecting the latch - will have to borrow every socket extension I can. Guess where my tools are? :)

RT

The striker plate should bolt on (at least on the early 80s style) with two 10mm bolts. Three to four feet of extensions should get you from the back seat to the trunk.. I used that occasion to buy a bunch of 1/4" drive extensions at Sears... and they proved priceless for doing stuff like the intake manifold and adjusting the timing.

New keys aren't too bad.. about $40 to have it farmed out for the laser cut keys (on a nice Volvo blank), and about $4.50 for the dealer around here to cut them on a cheapie Ilco blank. The dealer around here stopped stocking the early-80s style trunk blanks (but when he did they were the nice steel Volvo blanks). If you can talk your Volvo dealer out of the key code, you may as well take it to a locksmith.

Of course, I learned the hard way just how much the dealers want for a new trunk lock “kit” (which didn't include the locking plate or the gasket)... $100. Nevermind that the lock cylinders (while you can rekey some of them) are the first things to be trashed at a junkyard..

- alex

'85 244 Turbo

My recently purchased 244 had a key broken off in the trunk lock...
A locksmith removed it for $20 for the PO.
--
Jim McDonald

I think you do indeed have a valet key. You might be able to get it copied to a regular blank, or visit the dealer with proof of ownership. About $8 for my last dealer key made from the VIN.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

If your '87 is like my '88, there are two keys for the car. One is the regular key which operates the ignition and will also open the doors and trunk. The other key is a "valet" key which will operate the ignition but not lock the doors, trunk or glove compartment. (I think I have that right, I seldom use the valet key). There is no separate trunk key on my '88 240 unlike the '83 and '84 240s I've had. Are you trying to use the valet key?

The door/ignition key is the trunk key. Are you using it correctly? However, the trunk can also be opened with long socket extensions through the back seat tunnel. You will need a flashlight to see teh 4 target bolts that hold the latch to the body of the trunk.