Hi guys,
What part of the radiator is so prone to failure ? Is it the top part where the upper radiator hose connects to the radiator ? Is that supposed to be the plastic that is supposed to fail ? I took a look at my radiator and the top part(when hose connects) is plastic but inside the plastic it seems to be all metal. So I'm not sure what type of radiator I have. Would this be the original Volvo one ? or an all metal one ? Also what tool do I have to use to get the radiator screws out. The regular screwdriver doesnt seem to work.


Thanks
Naveen 92 940T@119.4K 00 9-3SE@45.8K

The upper hose region is the one that breaks. The standard original radiator is plastic on the end tanks and aluminum in the middle. The plastic at the inlet of the upper hose tends to brittle and crack.

My OWN radiator (this time, not someone else's) was looking a little bit stressed at the upper hose. I ordered a replacement through wholesale distribution and when the replacement came and I took my old one out, it snapped with hardly any pressure at the upper hose.

For what it's worth, the Nissens replacement unit for 92-95 940 series (non-turbo) is a super unit. It is $180 or so at wholesale price, which means about 180 from the big wholesale-like parts housese. You can't really replace the rad with an all-metal one because the mounting is somewhat different and the electric fan needs a place to live. For that reason, the 92-95 models need a special rad which are usually plastic/aluminum. Get it; the price is worth it.

Also, the Nissens replacement does have the metal reinforcements. Also, the Nissens rad comes with the temp sensor grommet, which even the Volvo unit does NOT. I highly recommend it. Stay away from the el cheapo asian brands. They're OK if you're replacing a Corolla radiator, but for a Volvo, splurge and get the Nissens. It fits like a glove.
--
A Brickboard Expat

Hey expat thanks for the info. I did press the upper plastic opening at the radiator. It seemed pretty good. Since the plastic connection has a metal lining I was wondering even if that plastic hose cracked wouldn't the metal part hold the thing good. That was why I was confused. Anyway I think I'll replace it to be safe. Would be a waste throwing away a decent radiator though.

Naveen

It isn't a good radiator, anymore.

Believe me, it is money well spent. I can't tell you how many times those things have broken on me while taking off a hose, removing it from the car, etc. Think of it as a once every ten years routine maintenance expense.
--
A Brickboard Expat

Your radiator is most likely a Blackstone which Volvo OE because it has the metal liners at the hose ends. I don't think the Nissens have a metal liner. It commonly fails at the upper hose connection which is the hot coolant return hose connection, engine to radiator flow. The plastic radiator life span is about 8 years so if it's the original, it was definitely due a replacement. One failed a the upper hose connection and another failed at the tank side during pressure test in a pre-purchase inspection. The only good thing about the plastic w/ aluminum core radiators it that it's very light weight.

My son and I had just replaced one on his Turbo using a Blackstone. Very self evident R&R. I don't know the torx size but it matched the torx screwdriver that came with the car. There are a couple torx screws at a bottom air baffle (on some cars), that fastens to the radiator.

If or when its time, you can buy a Nissens at FCPGroton.com or a Blackstone from my favorite, Swedishengineering.com. You will have to call Swedish Engineering, ask for Philip.

You may want to think about replacing all the hoses, the t-stat, and the coolant overflow tank at the same time. Volvo OE hoses have been widely touted as being much superior to the Scantech hoses. Use new coolant if it needs it, Prestone Dex-Cool (cheap), Zerex G-05 (big$), Volvo OE (big$) or regular Prestone (cheap).

--
Tom F Four 940s, RIP '78 244

My original plastic tank radiator broke where the upper hose was clamped to it. I bought an all-metal radiator one year ago for $120 (not dealer who wanted $220) and so far have had no problems.
Keith
--
1990 740GL Wagon 223k AW70L B230F 8 Valve Non-Turbo Regina

Hi Keith where did you get a radiator for such a low price ?

Sorry for not getting back sooner but I purchased my all metal radiator from a small independent auto radiator shop in Maine. Mr. Smith is an older gentleman who works by himself out of his garage. He has a large supply of radiators in stock.

C.A. Smith, Inc.
New Radiators and Gas Tanks
116 Main Street
Topsham, ME 04086
207-725-4767

With tax my radiator cost $120.75 (10-4-02)

Keith
--
1990 740GL Wagon 223k AW70L B230F 8 Valve Non-Turbo Regina

I just replaced the radiator in my '93 940. The old radiator had been replaced by the PO and was an all metal type, no plastic on it anywhere. It failed twice , once at the lower corner, passenger side when the solder seam on the side tank started to split. I had that repaired but the repair shop said it might not hold since there radiator was pretty lightly made. I haven't had a plastic tank fail(yet) but I hear they tend to break at the place the radiator connects.

Then my radiator started to leak in the upper corner, driver's side, where the tubes connect to the tank. I was able to reduce the leak by switching the coolant tank cap from the grey cap to a black cap which has lower pressure (a 240 cap). At this point I decided to replace the radiator.

I bought and installed a Nissens radiator which is a 2-row, plastic-aluminum type. Nissens also makes an all-metal type but the radiator shop couldn't get one for me. There was no metal inside the connection to the radiator hose.

My '88 240 has the original Volvo radiator with plastic tank and aluminum tubes. There is no metal in the connector.

You mention a problem getting the screws out of the radiator. There were 1 or 2 Torx screws in mine near the top of the radiator. As I recall, these screws held the AC condensor to the radiator. I think the size was a T25 but my wife has the car and I can't check now. I've replaced lots of radiators and I've got to say the 940 has by far the most screws, bolts and misc. pieces to remove. Be sure you get the new radiator securely shoved down into the two rubber bottom mounts. These mounts had been displaced in mine and I had to get them back into their proper position before the new radiator would fit.