Hey guys...I recently acquired an '87 740 GLE Wagon with 210,000 miles. It runs when it wants to...I am doing some basic troubleshooting now. I have changed the fuel filter, air filter, and am working on the spark plugs and wires when I get extra money. My concern is that I have bought a new distributor cap and rotor, and as per my Haynes manual, the screws are on the other side of the cap, facing the firewall... How the hell am I supposed get those 3 screws off? When I reinstall, can I screw them in the opposite way, making it easier for me to change it in the future? Please help me; I have many plans for this wagon...

I use a 1/4" ratchet, a tiny knurled tool that allows you to spin a socket, and a box end wrench. If I remember correctly, all three bolts require different tactics.

Fortunately, the job gets much easier after you have done it once, and you do not have to remove the cap very often.
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96 855R, 95 855,854, 90 744 Ti - 340,000 Volvo miles put on 7 bricks

8 MM wrench is all you need to remove the screws.

Repacing parts is not a good way to troubleshoot. Expensive, time consuming and you may create new problems.
It is better to observe all the symptoms, diagnose the problem then solve it.

What are your symptoms?
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David Hunter

The runs-when-it-wants-to part may be due to a funky fuel injection relay. It's a classic sign.

Cap and rotor are an easy fix, but watch the hall sensor wires that go back to the distributor. If you're not careful you can screw up the wiring and the sensor, and then you'll be hating life. Just use caution working around the wires. I haven't worked on a pre-1989 700 series for a long time (mostly all post-90 cars) so I don't remember off the top of my head exactly where or how the wires or the sensor are mounted, but I do remember having seen several broken.

The easiest way to remove the distributor cap is with an 8mm ratcheting box end wrench. An 8mm swivel socket also works, as does a ratcheting #2 Phillips screwdriver.

No, the screws don't reverse.
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john

Thanks... I'll try to that ratcheting screwdriver tomorrow...It's just such an inconvenient place to put it, while the timing belt is right on front! Another question... I want to change my four headlight system to the 1 concealed beam headlight system...Would anything electrical need to be done? Is it an expensive job?

The distributor actually does quite well where it is. Like Chis Herbst wrote, be carefull of the Hall effect connector at the bottom of the distributor. If you are doing to disconnect it, do that with the cap in place so that you have something to pull against. There is lots of information on the 700 series distributors in the 700/900 FAQ. You should visit there.

The four headlight system does not look as nice as the single lens lights used on the 1988+ 760s, the 1990+ 740s, and all of the 900 series, but the lighting is much better. If you really want to convert to the single headlight system, you would want to get the European E-code headlights. They cost anywhere from $350 and up in the US. Be sure to get the ones from a right hand traffic country.
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john