Hi,

Just been through the archives so that I would not have to post this question, but could not find the answer I was looking for. I have a 1982 240GL in great condition, except for the top of the dash, all cracked... Could anyone tell me the best (easiest) way to remove this old dash pad please? I have seen several good ones at the local Pic a Part yard and thought I would take the one off of my car so that I would know how to do it at the wrecking yard on one of their cars. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Alynn

Cut and paste this into your browser.

http://www.homestead.com/volvo2/Dash.html

Good luck, It shouldn't take long and don't forget to transfer the vin to the new dash.
Dave Shannon
Spring Valley, California (San Diego area)
'84-245 200K+
'84-245T 190K+
'88-240 190K+
'01 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 10K
www.volvo2.homestead.com (Opens new window)

i replaced mine in my '88 244 with one from a yard. pull the one out of the yard's car first would be my advice. that will give you all the knowlege you need to put it back in your car. also be gentle with your wiring when removing the gauge cluster. i experienced temp gauge freak outs because i was too rough with my wiring.

If you have located a good dash in the salvage yard remove the whole thing and replace the entire dash in your car. It sounds difficult but it's not that bad. It also affords the opportunity to fix anything (heater fan, wiper motor) that might be starting to go bad.
--
'80 DL 2 dr

A somewhat related question to this topic: Can you get to the motor for the recirc/fresh flap in the heater unit which is buried in the top of the it with the dash out? Mine is bad (I get the "valooks like it's very common on 240's) and short of removing the whole unit, there seems to be no other way to replace it.
Thanks!

At first I thought maybe you were refering to the control unit which is pretty accessible. But I see the motor in a cutaway diagram in one of the books. I have never gone that far into the heating system but it looks as if the motor is inside the case which means you would have to remove the entire unit and split it. Even if you can get to it without removing the whole unit removing the dash seems necessary.
I don't recall this being a common problem. Are you sure it's not a leaking or disconnected vacuum hose or a problem with the control head itself?
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'80 DL 2 dr

Do a search in the archives for "replacing blower motor 200". You'll find what you need.

There are 2 main methods talked about on this site. The "right" way, which involves taking the dash and motor housing apart, and the Don Foster "chainsaw" method which involves just cutting into the side of the motor housing. You'll find info on both methods in the archives.
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as "Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!"

Thanks, however those are the instructions for changing the blower motor. I'm referring to the vacuum motor that controls the fresh air flap for the unit. It's way up at the very top of the heater unit where the air first comes in from the cowl.

I have not tried to, but my gut feeling would be no you can't get at that without taking the heater out. The intake from the cowl is on the top of the back of the unit, and the recirc flap is underneath it. Also I am pretty sure the actuator (or motor as you called it) is on the inside of the the intake, and there is very little clearance between the heater and the firewall. It pulls the door flap closed, so when the actuator fails to flap stays open.
If you don't have AC you can just wedge a tennis ball back there to keep the flap closed. Pressing the rec button in will stop any vacuum leaks.

Thanks for the reply. I didn't think it was possible but wanted to ask about it. Everyone jokes about how bad the blower motor job is, this is even worse. I guess Volvo never thought the vacuum motor up there would ever fail. HAH!
I have the "tennis ball" fix in place for the winter and I pinched off the vacuum hose with a tie-wrap. In spring I take the ball out, un-pinch the hose and listen to the vacuum leak under there all summer which drives me little crazy. I get the hissing whether the recirc button is in or out.

That means you're running with a vacuum leak all summer, which may not be the best thing for the engine. Why not leave it plugged? Or am I missing something? (I have changed a few blower motors, but tend not to dwell on the details.)
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67