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I saw one for sale.. It's actually been for sale for quite a while (not many die hard volvo fans in my town). The mans says it runs but it needs to get timed. (im going to ask him to crank it) The tranny is good. The body is straight, just needs paint, and for old leather the interior looks pretty damn good except for the paper on the floor from where it hasnt been cleaned in forever.
He said "i'll take 600"
If it runs.. 450.. if not no more than 250.. what do you guys think?
If i get it i'll have to change my username!
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im not sure what year it is.. but it is a manual. no rust that i saw.. there is probably a spot or two but the door jams were solid. it probably has in the 200,000's but im not sure. it's been sitting for over a year so though so im not really in a hurry but i'd like to get around to it in the next couple weeks.
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Just to give you an idea - I paid $1200 for a no-rust, re-done interior (not too bad) automatic (had a stick in reserve) that was kind of running and has since been tuned to a fare-thee-well. Oh - it's a 1972. I agree with what everyone has said though, since I had to travel to Georgia to get mine. There are NO 164s in South Dakota that I know of, except mine. Stick with a standard tranny, the autos are really worthless. As George says, the cam can fake you out in the timing department. If it is 1973 or older, grab it.
If the leather interior is really in good shape, consider yourself really lucky! Don't sit on it until you have fully re-conditioned the leather though. Cracking when the leather is dry is very probable.
Have fun!
Kent
--
Kent - too much iron, too little time
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They are easy enough to time but the cam may be bad (making the owner think
the timing is bad). You can check this by pulling the valve cover and measuring
lift of each valve. Should be at least 3/8".
Std tranny or OD is good. Auto is not so good.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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re: "...You can check [the cam] by pulling the valve cover and measuring
lift of each valve. Should be at least 3/8"...."
George, Thank You -- your remark caught my eye. It sounds very useful, but may I just ask to clarify...since I want to check out my own car:
I've got a newly acquired '75 164*, which seems to run good, but I have heard about the "cam wear" problem and have been wondering about it (e.g., is it borderline bad?). So you're saying that the cam is good if the total vertical movement of the rockers more than 3/8" (0.375")? Should this be measured on the "valve stem" side of the rocker, or on the pushrod side [they're not exactly equal arm lengths from the fulcrum, are they? So they would be different.]
Anything that you can add to help me make my determination more exact would be appreciated.
Thank you very much.
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You can use a steel ruler or a dial indicator (long stroke) if you have one.
Measure to the top of the valve spring retainer, slam shut and wide open.
The difference should be 3/8" or a little more. Normally if you wipe out a
cam lobe it will be completely wiped out, but I have seen a few with only
moderate wear. In my experience what happens is that the hard skin on the
bottom of the lifter wears through leaving a hard, sharp edge that first wears
the shoulders off the cam lobe and then the center goes after that.
That is why I don't trust the OEM lifters. My experience with Sealed Power
lifters has been much better. (see some of my previous posts)
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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Hi, George.
Per your endorsement, I just bought a set of lifters, Sealed Power, from Friendly Fred on eBay, just to have on hand, for that time when I change the cam. My car is buried right now in snow and so I haven't checked the cam lobes yet, though.
I seemed to remember something, but not exactly what, that is noteworthy about these Sealed Power lifters's length -- that they're different from OEM lifters, or they're different from IPD's lifters? That they require different length pushrods? Does any of this make sense? Can you let me know? Thanks again.
Ken
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The ones you got from FF are supposed to be a direct replacement for OEM
lifters. The IPD lifters were similar but shorter and lighter. THEY required
special pushrods, not these.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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Thanks again, very much.
Ken
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Georege,
Thanks very much for your details. And I have seen that guy selling the Sealed Power lifters on eBay -- I'll keep him in mind.
Much thanks.
Ken
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Biggest issues in my mind would be the year, whether its a 4 speed or auto, and rust. Total miles wouldn't hurt either...
In any case, you can make him any offer and leave your phone number so he can call when he decides to give it away... done that before and got cars for less than 1/4 of the asking price, but if its the right car... well, you gotta sleep at night too.
I've also paid a good bit more than asking price if I thought I was ripping folks off...
In your case, I'd say if its a '72 or older with a manual transmission, and not too rusty, its probably a really good buy. But definitely best to hear it run if not drive it first.
-Matt
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Tony,
I had a '69 164 and I wish I never sold it.I had one of the first 164s imported,it had the bulletproof M400 trans with the heavy duty clutch.
For a Volvo that car flew even with 269k on the clock.
What year is the one you're looking at?
--
philvo '86 245 215k,'90 240 196k,'87 SAAB 900 SPG 213k
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