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Ok, Went after a leaky camshaft seal and now I've ended up dissassembling the front of the engine. Got a new timing belt on there, she's running like it's off a tooth or two, CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE lay down a good way to get that belt on there? The camshaft and intermediate sprockets line up fine but then that double mark doesn't want to make it to the mark on the crank. Just doesn't seem to be fitting right. Says in the Haynes manual you can screw up the valves by turning the crankshft with no belt on it (b230f), true? How the hell am I supposed to get the crank on the mark then?
AND NOW...suddenly the brakes feel all screwed up, do they depend on the engine somehow?
And my old problems, I've got a wobble in the stearing, tires balding on the outside edges (play in rack/rods?)
ANd, my wipers won't go, good motor, can't find a short, blame it on a relay?
Any help is so much appreciated, I really want to keep this car going....sc
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Here are some ideas that might help you with the timing belt and other front-of-the-engine jobs. These are just things that have worked for me. There are various approaches that work.
Suggestions:
-Remove the valve cover and front cam cap to access the cam seal.
-Remove the seal carrier to access the intermediate seal and the crank seal. Replace these two on the bench.
-Removing the seal carrier also makes it easy to clean up the crank and intermediate shaft where the new seal will ride.
-Notice exactly how deeply all three seals are set before you remove them.
-Have a crank tool on hand. $36 from Chris at Swedish Engineering (1-800-938-6586 X502). Beautiful tool. IPD has a similar tool for about $39 (1-800-444-6473.
-Don’t just drive the new seals a little deeper onto virgin territory without cleaning the shafts first. Easy if the seal carrier is removed. They might be crudded up and need cleaning. What you think is “virgin shaft” might in fact be rough and cruddy which wouldn’t do the new seals any good.
-Clean everything along the way.
-Consider replacing the water pump (Hepu $33, Groton, Nick 1-877-634-0063), the coolant, the tensioner($22, Groton), and all the drive belts.
-Have a seal carrier gasket and valve cover gasket on hand.
-Before removing the old belt, line the engine up at #1 TDC and mark the front edge of the old belt right in front of the three marks on the engine. (The original marks on the old belt probably won’t be lined up anymore. Don’t worry about that.) Mark the front edge of the new one right where its factory marks are and carefully compare the two. Make sure the marks on the new one match the marks on the old one, assuming your old one was installed correctly.
- The crankshaft mark might not seem to line up right. When the engine turns the mark on the belt will hit the right place on the sprocket. You have to count back counterclockwise, say 6 notches on the belt from the double mark, and six teeth back on the sprocket, and make sure those marks hit each other. That way when the engine is turned over the official mark on the belt will hit the right place on the pulley. The official mark on the belt won't actually be touching the right place on the sprocket while the cam and intermediate marks are on target. That's because the correct place on the crank sprocket will be up and won't be touching the belt at all until the engine is turned over.
-It’ll all be clear when you do the job. Take your time and enjoy the job. It’s not hard, and is actually kind of fun.
- Groton, IPD, and Swedish Engineering are three good possibilies for parts. There are others too, but generally not the dealers. Check prices and brand names. Often Groton has the very same brand parts for the best prices. When I bought my crank tool, Swedish Engineering was the best.
Good luck. I hope this helps.
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, M46; 86 244, 140k , auto.
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posted by
someone claiming to be fborcher
on
Thu Feb 19 03:03 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Timing Belt: I agree the job is not that difficult, just a little intimidating at first. I've done 2 on 2 different cars now. On the second, I ignored the marks on the belt.
What matters is that the Pulleys are in the right position, so I lined up the pulleys with their marks before removing the belt. I made a new mark on the bottom pulley and housing that meant I didn't have to count teeth. Then, just try to put the pulley on without turning anything. If you do turn something, you have your reference marks to turn it back to. Sounds complicated, but it isn't.
The good feeling is to turn the engine over and it starts and runs the same as before.
While you are in there, here is what I did: belts, hoses, water pump, timing belt tensioner, and alternator brushes-just soldering(out of the car). I took out the radiator to gain working space, and cleaned it out and cleaned the outside. It was amazing how much crap was lodged between the fins.
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If Cam and Crank marks agree at 0° TDC for #1, but distributor is off, you may be able to get it in time without messing with the belt.
Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor CW so its centerline is about 1/4" past the #1 index mark/notch on the edge of the distributor body. (The 1/4" represents the initial 12° degrees of Distributor Advance—i.e., the rotor was at the mark 12° before the cam & crank got to 0°.)
Then turn it about 30° more and hold it there as you put the distributor back in. You may need to wiggle the rotor to help engage the drive gears.
As the gears engage, the rotor will pivot back to the left, and hopefully stop at 1/4" past the mark. If it's close, you may be able to bring it in with the rotational adjustment range. Or you may need to play with the initial 30° preset and try again.
It all depends on how many teeth the I-shaft gear is off.
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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posted by
someone claiming to be bosozoku
on
Thu Feb 19 02:21 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Is the outer tire wear sort of "feathered," meaning that either
the front or rear edges of your tread blocks feel "sharp" while
the opposite edges feel rounded. If so, your toe-in angle is
too large. Try turning both tie rods out (lengthen them) by
1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Then go for a drive on the highway. If the
car feels too twitchy, you can always readjust the rods for more
toe-in. Also, rotate your tires. Another cause of heavy outer
tire wear in my case was loose front wheel bearings, probably allowing
the wheels to change camber slightly under heavy cornering. Jack
your car up, and wiggle the wheel to test the bearings. If it's
sloppy in all directions, you've found a bearing problem. If the
bearings don't make noise when turned with the brake pads removed,
then you can adjust them. Pry out the cap in the center of the
hub, remove the cotter pin from the nut, and tighten the nut just
enough to eliminate wobble. Use a new cotter pin to lock the nut
in position.
.
The timing belt issue has already been discussed adequately by other
posters, I think.
.
Good luck,
-b.
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OK, basic timing is: Cam set so both #1 cyl valves closed (i.e., firing stroke). Distributor rotor pointing at #1 wire on the cap. Crank set so #1 piston is at TDC. Note alignment marks on the gears. Install belt.
Your brakes may be 'screwed up' because they relay on manifold vacuum for power assist. A mis-timed timing belt plays hob with valve timing which diminishes manifold vacuum. Get the belt right, your brakes should be fine.
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"The camshaft and intermediate sprockets line up fine but then that double mark doesn't want to make it to the mark on the crank"
Just line up the sprocket marks with those on the engine as shown in Haynes. The marks on the belt aren't essential but help.
"Says in the Haynes manual you can screw up the valves by turning the crankshft with no belt on it (b230f), true?"
If the b230f is an INTERFERENCE design then, yes, turning the crankshaft without turning the cam equally would cause the pistons to hit valves.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans
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No worry of bending valves on the American market b230f. Do what you have to do to get things to line up.
Randy
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