Does anyone have any experience of using the soundproofing material Dynamat Xtreme? A friend has given me a bulk-pack and I am tempted to use it on the floor and doors of my Amazon, just to make motorway cruising less noisy, and hear the radio.

This stuff has a self adhesive side and then the proofing material plus an alu liner that is meant to help heat loss. I will be giving this to a firm to do, but I wondered whether you thought it was worth it, whether there are particular extra areas that you would cover, and what areas to avoid. Can I cover the entire inside of door? Should I do the hood and/or boot space?

And lastly, since this stuff forms a strong seal with the metal, would I have to worry about the occasional leak inside. I would not install felt for this reason, because it soaks up water and corrodes from inside.

Thanks guys.

Tom

THanks very much for suggestions so far. They are very useful.

Tom

Tom, I am covering the entire of my wagon with a similar asphalt based sound proofing material called FatMat. Just as a not to anyone who reads this, it can be found on Ebay at $89.00 per 100 sq ft, a much better deal than dynamat and a very comparable product. This is a vibrational dampening material so you want to cover any large sheetmetal areas with it. A second layer supposedly triples the effectiveness of the product, so I am doing the tranny tunnel twice as well as the shelf around the rear end. Inside the doors on the outer skin itself seems to be very effective, giving the doors a solid clunk when they shut instead of a tinny ring. It is not important to cover every crack of the surface with this stuff, you just want to get the best coverage possible. You will want to clean every surface with a degreaser and then a tack cloth to ensure proper adhesion. If you have trouble, you can also coat the metal surface with contact cement. Be advised though, YOU WILL NEED A HEAT GUN and a WIRE BRUSH TO REMOVE THIS. Once it is done, it is permanent, so make sure your floors and doors are in good shape and properly rust proofed (ie: POR 15). Doing the hood is ill-advised because this stuff softens and melts quickly as the temp raises. Doing the boot is a good idea because it is a large open metal space that would tend to resonate sound. As a coverage guideline, pay attention to the stock sound proofing asphalt panels Volvo used. You want to maximize the coverage in the areas that they placed the stuff.

Good luck,
Josh

Has anyone used this material in the roof of their 122? Just wondering if you can get it up in there???

Paul

It will stick to any metal surface, so I presume you just take the headliner off, prepare the metal surface and stick on. My only concern would be that you are doubling the weight of the stuff and this will have an effect on performance; maybe this is negligible if you're not concerned with the very best performance.

We put a heat shield/insulation pad on the whole roof of our 122 wagon. Probably only quiets the rain sounds but it makes the car nice and warm in the winter and much cooler in the summer and it hides perfectly under the headliner.

Beware of how much sound deadening material you put on the tranny tunnel. We had to "custom trim" ours to get the seats to fit again along with the rear heater duct.

-Erik
p.s. let us know how well you think the stuff works.

I used Dynamat on my 1966 VW Bug and found it to be very effective. I did not do any special preparation of the metal and did not have any problem with it coming unstuck. The adhesive is very sticky. Don't use it in the engine compartment.