Hello brickboarders,

This is a weird one.

I stopped to pick up a friend after 10 mins driving. Sat for about 5 mins, engine off, auxiliary power on (key turned to the left), listening to the radio. When I started up the dipped headlights wouldn't come on. I pressed the foot-operated switch a bit (but not enough to click) and they came on ... BUT, when I put the clutch down to change gear they went off again. This happened 2-3 times but eventually they stayed on.

HOWEVER, when I pulled off the car felt about twice as heavy, as if it was really dragging, acceleration was poor although the engine was smooth; idle was a bit rough, as though the car wasn't charging properly.

I'm not sure if this is two separate problems, but they came together, so maybe are related. What would make the car feel so heavy? And could someone pin-point the electrical fault, why would putting in the clutch make the lights go out?

THanks, guys, for all advice on this!

Tom

I played around with the foot headlamp switch and the problem definitely seems to be there. If I rock it back and forth with my foot the lights switch on and off. Probably putting the clutch in also disturbed whatever loose wire is causing the problem.

I think that the heavy feeling I described in the original post was not connected. Maybe binding brakes. It was not apparent next time I drove the car.

Tom

Tom;

Wierd, seemingly unexplainable electrical problems (in the end, electricity is TOTALLY predictable, and explainable!), can most often be explained by poor ground connection(s). That is when everthing is as it should be, the ground connection is SUPPOSED to be the return current path to the battery and charging system. When one of these ground connections becomes compromised, electrical current might flow through some totally unexpected path, connecting two items which would normally have ZERO to do with each other (other than being in the same car!). This is what then causes the totally whacko symptoms.

In your case, light current may have been flowing through clutch cable (if your car is so equipped), associated with a poor chassis to block connection...step on clutch, lights might do strange things....this MIGHT even happen with a hydraulic clutch!!! The sluggishness on start-up, may be traceable to a poor spark due to low system voltage (or forgetting to release the hand-brake)!

Its tricky to remotely troubleshoot electrical problems...fortunately though, the electrical system of a vintage Volvo is fairly simple. Some general suggestions:

First, assure all the connections having to do with the battery and charging system are clean, free of corrosion and snug. This includes the braid, connection from chassis to engine, connections at fuse block, and at ignition switch. Next, monitor the voltage of the electrical system (at ignition switch for instance), a temporarilly connected meter taped to the dash will do it. Report back, if problem persists, noting ALL symtoms.

Good Hunting!

Tom: To add to Ron's suggestions, I'd clean and inspect the fuse block, ensuring there's no corrosion on the fuses or that the spring contacts have not weakened. I bend the bottom contact on the fuse block upwards, so that when you insert the fuse, it stays tight and lessens the buildup of corrosion. Damp weather has been known to cause electrical faults, especially if there's a coating of engine oil and grime that can act as an elelectrical conductor.

Lastly, on my 1960 Amazon, there's a black plastic connector, on the inside fender wall near the radiator on the driver's side that likewise can become corroded, not allowing the contacts to mate. It's worth a look. The movement of the car, can sometimes cause random faults and I've found the grounding straps to be somewhat inadequate, at least on the early Amazons.
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Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM