Hi. I'm having a problem with my car again. The idle is really high lately and after the engine has heated up to driving temp. it stalls. I spent 2 hours yesterday looking for any problem such as a vacuume leak in the lines, flame trap and hoses, air filter hose, etc. I tried turning down the idle as low as it would go with the idle screw, but no luck. Could this be a throttle body or constant idle system problem? Hopefully someone can help. Thanks!
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Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles

Thanks again! My problem turned out to be the idle control air valve. I picked one up in the junkyard for $8, cleaned it put it on, prayed and the idle immediately went down. I'm very happy with my Volvo again!
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Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles

Could it be your throttle position switch ? This is the black thing with the wire going to it on the back of your intake manifold. With engine off, turn the throttle by hand and you should hear a click when you return it to the idle position. If you don't, it is bad or misadjusted. Even if you hear a click, the switch could be bad. Read the FAQ for testing, adjusting and replacing procedures.
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Andy '91 745 184K, '89 244 134K, '87 245 lost the rust battle at 225K mi

If you're idle mixture is good (which it probably is), this is a classic case of the Idle Air Control Valve getting gummed up with deposits and varnish (dried oil) and causing inconsistent operation (if it can even function at all).

I just wrote an extensive post on cleaning your IAC Valve and several of your potential questions should be answered in the rest of the thread:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=778266&show_all=1

Follow the cleaning instructions mentioned in the above thread, and when you think you're done, keep going an additional amount of time that you just invested. That valve assembly should turn freely and not require assistance from a screw driver or a Q-tip. Don't forget the tubes/ductwork since they're probably holding a lot of crud in them. Be sure to clean the air passegeway in the throttle body (the Black Thumbwheel Screw, and you can leave the Throttle body bolted to the intake manifold when doing this) and then follow the instructions in your Haynes/Bentley book for setting your idle speed. FYI, if you're looking at diagrams and trying to figure out which one goes to your car, you have the LH-Jetronic 2.2 Fuel Injection System. If you have to buy another IAC Valve to replace your current one (scrap yard special), either a 501 or a 520 will work and the 520 is simply newer version of the 501 (no real difference).

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
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'87 Blue 245, NA 236K

your problem:

most likely many vacuum leaks, intake manifold gasket and injector seals are most common. I would say it could also be from a worn out ICV, yes they are expensive, but they are they key element of CIS idling. remember any leaks down from the AMM can cause a problem in terms of idle.

Replacing the intake man gasket and injector seals isn't hard, but takes a good 3-4 hours. It wouldn't hurt to replace all your vacuum hoses and/or tighten them down with hose clamps.

good luck
chuck
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'88 244 174K, '87 BMW 325e 177K (used to feed a '84 245, '84 244, '85 744)