posted by
someone claiming to be Chris
on
Sun May 2 23:27 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Hi guys,
I will be replacing my timing belt on the weekend.
I was wondering what if anything else I should be replacing in that area at the same time.
There are no aparent leaks in that area yet.
I will also be relacing all the brake pads and flushing the brake fluid.
Again, anything special I should know?
My car doesn't seem to have half the issues you guys talk about on this site on cars with less mieage than mine, I guess that is a climate thing? (e.g. leaking seals) That said my sump has a slight beard, but the bottom is dry and clean, so I am guess that the bolts just need nipping up again.
There is a slight covering of fluid on the rear half of the transmission sump. I am hoping that is just a nipping up thing as I had to do that a couple of time on my 144. It isn't leaving drops on my driveway yet so I am not overly concerned at this stage.
Many thanks,
Chris from down under!
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posted by
someone claiming to be JohnB
on
Tue May 4 00:56 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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AT 127Km or 76K miles US I wouldn't do anything BUT change the timing belt. The tensioner should be good until the second timing change (but you're welcome to spin it and if it wobbles or sounds/feels grainy replace it). A new one will feel very tight and smooth, almost greasy, and will be very quiet.
I'd also leave the water pump alone if it's not giving you any problem or leaking. They'll generally give you a lot of warning before failure...if you feel any sideways play in the shaft you might replace it. Change the coolant every couple of years if it's std volvo coolant or every five if it's the pink stuff (if it's DexCool monitor your chemistry and appearance carefully!).
Seals are maybe...I'd change them at 100K miles if it was a 50K TB change, but the 940's apparently have a longer belt change interval. YOu have a good chance of making it to the next TB change without changing seals...I wouldn't bother.
More important is cleaning out/checking the PCV system....if it clogs new seals won't matter...the engine will leak.
Lastly, don't forget to retension the timing belt after 500miles....simple, easy, saves pain later.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Chris
on
Tue May 4 09:30 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Thanks John,
Your advice is not only music to my ears (I am a drummer) but it also sounds reasonable.
By the way what is the PCV system?
Many thanks,
Chris from Down Under
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posted by
someone claiming to be hummeri7582
on
Wed May 5 11:35 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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The PCV System on a Volvo is the oil seperator and flame trap. Most cars use a different system.
I replace my flame trap and flush out all the hoses leading to and from it twice annually.
If the flame trap clogs, you'll leak oil, no matter what.
Look up flame trap replacemnt in the FAQs on this board.
Flame trap is cheap -- $4 at a dealer in the US, as little as 50 cents elsewhere. Takes about 8 minutes to do.
I'd tell you how, but I'm used to the B234F engine, and it's located differently on different engines, so just look it up in the FAQs. I always replace the trap itself (a little piece of nylon or brass with holes in it) and use carburetor cleaner to flush out the hoses and oil nipples. Don't get carb. cleaner in the oil seperator though -- don't want it leaking to the crankcase and diluting the oil.
Hope this is helpful,
Fred
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posted by
someone claiming to be hummeri7582
on
Wed May 5 09:01 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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The PCV System on a Volvo is the oil seperator and flame trap. Most cars use a different system.
I replace my flame trap and flush out all the hoses leading to and from it twice annually.
If the flame trap clogs, you'll leak oil, no matter what.
Look up flame trap replacemnt in the FAQs on this board.
Flame trap is cheap -- $4 at a dealer in the US, as little as 50 cents elsewhere. Takes about 8 minutes to do.
I'd tell you how, but I'm used to the B234F engine, and it's located differently on different engines, so just look it up in the FAQs. I always replace the trap itself (a little piece of nylon or brass with holes in it) and use carburetor cleaner to flush out the hoses and oil nipples. Don't get carb. cleaner in the oil seperator though -- don't want it leaking to the crankcase and diluting the oil.
Hope this is helpful,
Fred
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I'd change the belt tensioner while you were in there. It's about a $20 part and is close to being do if its never been changed.
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Dear Chris,
Good p.m. and may this find you well. How many Km on yr. car? If it has, say 250,000 Km, it probably would be a good idea to do the front seals. When was the water pump last changed? When was the timing belt tensioner last changed?
I'd think that frequency of oil changes has more to do with (front) seal life than climate.
The oil pan bolts on 940s do work loose. I tighten them in stages, to compress the gasket evenly. Once they're snug, I give 1/8 turn.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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posted by
someone claiming to be Chris
on
Mon May 3 00:49 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Thanks for the good questions Spook.
Silly me keeps forgetting to put all sorts of important details.
1996 940S B239FK 127,000km low pressure turbo. No documentation of water pump or belt tensioner nor belt ever being changed.
I figure if the water pump isn't leaking it is probably just as well to leave it unless they are famous for internal deterioration.
I had to change the water pump in my old 144 at 300,000km because the seal was leaking and I couldn't get one without buying the pump as well. The original pump still appeared to be ok.
Cheers,
Chris
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posted by
someone claiming to be Park
on
Mon May 3 02:09 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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If you only drive local you can feel that way about the water pump job because it is no big deal to change, but if you plan long drives/trip you may want to do it in the way of PM.
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