All,

Riding around the other day a small amount of smoke came from under the passenger side dash, while my wife sat in the seat. I don't know if her elbow was on the switch or what. So a small amount of smoke emits from the dash then stops, the power window fuse is popped. I put another fuse in there and test, all windows work except for the passenger. Under the dash I unplug the power window connection and operate the other windows with no problem, with the passenger window unplugged the fuse still pops which says to me the problem is not with the passenger switch or wiring.

I find and pull the power window relay which disables the three functioning windows. Later on I locate the section of wire that was producing smoke. The insulation of the wires melted into each other but not enough to expose copper. This section was on the relay side of the connection plug under the glove compartment...With the passenger window unplugged and out of the circuit I install another fuse and work the other three windows that have now slow function and the fuse pops...

It doesn't seem to make much sense that the wires under the dash have become dislodged and spontaneosly lost its insulation and are touching and causing the short. Is it possible that the relay has sections in it that control the individual windows and it is failing per window... I dunno it is a single, small 40amp relay that I believe I can get at the auto parts store and see if it works. Like I said I just don't understand what is really going on and find it hard to believe that the wires are at fault as the windows have been functioning just fine. Any help/direction would be great.
Josh
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Best Regards,

Which fuse popped? #10 or #12?

The wiring is such that the relay, the one under the center air vents, is merely a method of making window function available only with the ignition in Position II.

That relay is on all the time. It allows current to flow through Fuse #10 into the switches. There is no other relay in the p/w circuit.

You can get a look at the relay and see if the base shows signs of overheating.

Pull the center vents, and the things holding the central control panel in place. The coin tray can be removed off the top of the control panel - use a wide flat tip screwdriver between the tray and the panel at each end. Pry up, the clips should pop off. Note that the tray can bend - just bend it back.

The relay can be identified by the wire colors. Brown, Dual Red, Blue-yellow, and black (ground).

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Fuse should go before wiring. Check that fuse is the proper size.

The motor is obviously drawing too much current which means that the motor is bad or something is binding in the window lift mechanism. Note, that this does not mean you could not have a short, but if it only happens when trying to operate the window, then more than likely the motor or mechanical problem.

You can remove the door panel to check it out. Pop out plugs that cover screw holes on door handle. Remove two door handle screws. Unscrew too look button. Remove half turn plastic fasteners of door pocket. Remove screws that hold door pocket ends (door pocket slips over them). Gently pry clips loose around door edge (use flat head screw drive at point where you can feel clips), hopefully not breaking them. Rotate the back section of the door about 45 degrees, which will release the panel from the door (at the door handle). There is a metal tab that fits in a slot which is at an angle; this is why you must rotate the panel. Be careful not to pull wire off the speaker when removing panel. If you lucky the speak will have push on connectors rather than soldered.

Gary