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Rear engine seal and shocks? 200

1] How much of a pita is replacing the rear engine oil seal on an 87 240? If I attempt this it will be outside in the driveway some jack stands and some big floor jacks.
2] Everyone talks about Koni,KYB, and Bilstein shocks.Just wondering if anyone has tried the other brands,Gabriel or Monroe.I know they are not high performance shocks but how do they compare to the original Volvo brand? I just picked up this 87 for a song and am looking to replace a few things without breaking the budget.Thanks,
Nelson








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    Before you give up on the rear main seal 200

    Nelson--

    The rear seal on my 1992 wagon got to where it was leaking a quart every 500 miles. Well, the engine used a little oil before, but beginning at Thanksgiving the tailgate glass would be coated after a few hundred miles on the interstate.

    I was stalling on the repair because I'm not equipped to pull a transmission. Recently I started asking around re any oil treatments that might actually work. Someone suggested BG's MOA engine oil additive.

    I put in a can. It's supposed to have seal conditioners for just this problem. After a 1000 mile highway trip, the leak is down by 50%. I'll try another can when I change the oil.

    I've heard that Castrol's "High Mileage Engine" oil also has seal conditioners. Will try that too. I might also try Red Line's oil treatment--it's been touted to me as well.

    Report back if you try any of this stuff.

    Doug Harvey








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    Rear engine seal and shocks? 200

    Rear engine seal is easy once you've removed the transmission. (Assuming you've got a manual transmission:) Be sure to get a plastic throwout bearing tool: makes reinstalling the throwout bearing a breeze. There is a *GREAT* seal removal tool at some aftermarket auto parts stores. Costs about $8-12. It looks a bit like a stylized capital-T: long handle with two opposing points at the top of the T. The points look a little like the tines of olive forks, slightly curved. You poke the tine under the seal, brace the top of the T arm across the edge of the seal race, and rock the handle back. Voila: the seal is removed!

    Since you're gonna remove the transmission anyway, consider replacing the clutch. Pretty cheap from IPD. Your labor will be more valuable than the parts cost.

    Consider replacing the front/rear transmission seals as well since you're down there. It is a weird but pleasant feeling to have a mid-80's car that doesn't drip oil. You are about to discover that feeling yourself.

    Next you can consider replacing the front crank/cam/timing seals, and perhaps the rear cam seal. And then the valve silencers when you adjust your valves. Weren't considering that yet? I bet you will. IPD has a good valve adjustment kit.

    I hope you like your car. Take care of it and you'll have it for a good long time.

    -- Bruce
    --
    -- Bruce / '82 244 (323k miles!), '86 745, '87 760Ti, '94 854








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      Rear engine seal and shocks? 200

      What is needed to replace the front transmission seal? Sorry for disturbing this thread, but I didn't get any answers to my post, and it looks as if you have done it :)


      Best regards,

      Lars Erik








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    Rear engine seal and shocks? 200

    1) Minor PITA, much less with a good trans jack.

    2) JUNK/GARBAGE!!!! Get some Sachs/Boge OEM shacks.
    --
    Jim McDonald








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      Rear engine seal and shocks? 200

      Thanks for all the replys. The car is an automatic.I will have to think this through as i do not have a tranny jack and it looks like the car will need to raised quite a bit.I am in the process of cleaning the engine to see where if any are the leaks.I have detailed the outside and inside and the car now looks like new.Amazing what soap,wax and time can do.I may try some of the seal conditioners mentioned.Need to get my list ready for FCP/IPD.Thanks,
      Nelson







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