I am going to be storing my '92 740 wagon (183K miles) for the forseeable future (my wife has been driving her new car exclusively, and we want to save the insurance money, but can't bear to part with the car yet). Any advice on what I should do to the car before it sits? Any advice on what I should do to the car periodically while it is in storage?

Thanks,

Andy

I agree with George, the biggest problem with storage is the fuel system. I have many ready bottles of fuel stabilizer, and many ready cans of penetrant since my little 67 122 gets very little drive time. I'm just so attached to my 240 wagon. I really should take her out more often. Gee, I'm making myself feel bad as I type this...anyhow...

Fill the tank, and dump several bottles of fuel stabilizer in the tank. If the car sits for more than 6 months, dump in another couple of stabilizers. Change all of your fluids, replacing one quart of your oil with Marvel's mystery oil. If you have pets, change your coolant over to Sierra or Prestone Low Tox, if a leak develops with the car sitting, it is more likely that a pet can ingest it. Change your brake fluid to eliminate any water that has accumulated unbeknownst to you in the system, so the calipers don't lock up. Pull the plugs, Marvel's into the chambers, seal them off. Spray every bolt you can find with WD40; regularly spray your brake line bolts and calipers with WD40. Again, like George said, if the car will be sitting for any length of time, wheels off, car up onto jack stands, tires flat on the ground, and condition the rubber regularly. The tires will dry rot and flat spot otherwise.

I actually have a Volvo green book detailing readying a car for storage. I'll look at it on Monday to see if I or George has forgotten something crucial. I'm sure if we did, someone else will share their insight.

Chris

I would suggest some gas preservative based on my recent experiences with old
gas. When I was storing my 164 for 6 months to a year at a time, the only
preservative I could get was for lawnmowers. I'd use about 3 bottles and fill
the tank right up to the snout so there was as little air exposure as possible.
Seemed to work OK. Sometimes the car was a little reluctant but it always
started fairly quickly. If you are in a very damp area you might want to
find a way to block your clutch disengaged so the clutch plate doesn't rust
to the flywheel. (This is not a difficult problem but the "lurch" method of
recovery is a little traumatic and the alternatives are difficult and time-
consuming.)

If it is going to be a LOOOOOOONG, loooong time, you might want to put it up
on blocks. I would also change the oil about 10 miles before you store it so
you have fresh oil throughout the engine. Drive it like you hate it just
before you change the oil so you drain out all the crud you stirred up.

Fresh anti-freeze is also a good idea so you are not trusting in depleted
corrosion inhibitors. If you are in a damp area and you store the car in
the dark, you might want to think about some anti-mildew spray. A dilute
solution of Consan or Physan (normally for garden use) might work in this.

When we went on leave from Panama we'd be gone about 6 weeks or so at a time
and the car(s) we left in the carport ALWAYS got mildew on the upholstery
even when we left massive quantities of desiccant in the car. The cars we
left out in the sun NEVER mildewed, not even in rainy season. They were closed
up tight and when the temp got up to 150-170° inside the car, the resulting
drop in RH (as well as the heat) really inhibited fungal growth. Mildew
likes cool and dark. Of course in the sun is harder on the paint and UV-
sensitive upholstery and plastic parts (rearview mirror, etc).
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US