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Hey everybody, I am parting out a '88 240. 99% percent of this car is in great working condition. That 1% that doesn't work so good (a couple of important leaks) I don't care to spend the time/money/effort on when I should be devoting myself to my beloves '82 turbo 4-speed.
I'm parting everything from the chrome to the block at extreemly low prices (this is basically all for the fun of dismantling the car to prepare myself for any future rebuild (hopefully a '62 122)). Whatever you want, it I'll send it to you. You pay shipping.
A couple of things you may want to know:
Color: white
Tranny: auto
Rims: just rims
Door pockets: busted
Interior otherwise: cherry (blue)
Pictures of parts available upon request.
Prices are way lower than any yard.
Any questions? Please feel free to espond to this post or email me.
Thanks,
Steven
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Please tell me about
1. Headlight lenses - yellowed?
2. I need the clear front side marker lenses if they aren't cracked from heat like mine.
3. Tail light buckets and lenses?
4. Air control valve. Don't know if that the right name, but I'm talking about the square flapper valve after the air filter.
My car has no rust but sits in the North Carolina sunshine and the lenses are cracked from dryness.
Let me know the condition of yours and how much for the good ones.
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A few things to mention, I personally feel that the '88 vehicles are the easiest to maintain and have the fewest "failure prone" parts. It's the last year of the Jetronic 2.2 system, and all the bugs are worked out. The 554 ECUs are great and can easily be swapped into an '85-'87 vehicle (the 561 ECUs of the '89+ vehicles can't hold a candle to the reliabilty of the 554). The wiring harness isn't biodegradeable, -and thus you don't have to worry about replacing it later. The ignition system is pretty bulletproof and doesn't require external ballast resistors or amplifier units. It has the improved corrosion protection that was phased in during the mid-80s.
The potential weak points of the '88 are the following (personal opinion):
1. Main Fuel System Relay -White. (all '83-'93 Jetronic vehicles have this relay)
2. Fuel Pressure Regulator. (replace every 100,000 miles for improved reliability, the vacuum diaphram FPR is present on all Jetronic Volvos)
3. 25-amp fuse for Fuel Injection system (under hood, all '83-'93 Jetronic vehicles)
4. Air Mass Meter. -while unlikely to fail, it's helpful to keep a spare in the trunk, and they can be picked up cheaply in the scrap yards or on eBay.
I personally feel that all the other years of the 240 had a greater number of potential issues than the '88s. If a non-mechanical person asked me what year 240 Volvo they should buy to have the greatest reliability, -I would always advise them to buy an '88. The only safety drawbacks are the lack of an airbag (available in 90-93) or ABS brakes (92-93).
With that said, I'm curious as to what's wrong with the vehicle? The only reason why I would part-out an '88 would be because of a terminal case of rust that's in it's late stages. If the vehicle is repairable, -how much do you want for the whole thing?
If the vehicle must be parted out, I'd be interested in the engine wiring harness, the ignition harness, the Ignition controller (tall black box behind passenger headlight), and the 554 ECU. I've got people (mostly friends) with '85-'87 vehicles who are on a waiting list to get these parts... My email can be accessed by clicking on my name at the top of this post.
Lastly, for the DIY mechanic who has an '85-'87 vehicle, swapping the fuel rail and the FPR from an '88 into your vehicle saves a lot of skinned nuckles when accessing the engine sensors, IAC Valve, and the left engine mount. The Fuel Pressure Regulator is mounted at the end of the fuel rail and provides greater access under the intake manifold.
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 240 Wagon, and my 240 has 240K miles.
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dear fitz,
thanks for the praise. i am aware of the desirablity of this year 240. the terminal problems of this car are quite extensive but would be nothing to the home pro. i can get you a better list in a few days but what i know of are rear diff. leak, powersteering leak, tranny leak, crack in the rack. the engine however, runs amazing. where are you located? i cant get your email. send me an email at
melaninx@excite.com
thanks steven
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I'm in West Michigan (straight West of Grand Rapids). Most of us here on the brickboard have completed the information section of our user profile. All you have to do is click on the word "Profile" just below my name at the top of this post. That will take you to a screen that shows my name, phone number, email, city/state/zip, etc. I don't post my email address in any of the posts since I'm trying to keep myself from getting picked up by the spam-bots that search the web. However, my email is only a mouse-click away if you need it. The information contained in the user profile is not web-searchable (google, etc) so it's private but can be accessed by other brickboard members.
With the repair needs that you've mentioned, -and looking at it from a cost effective standpoint, I don't think I can offer you an amount for the vehicle that would be more than what you'd make from parting it out. If it were a stickshift, -that would be another story.
The most popular traits that people ask me to look for when I'm helping them shop for a Volvo: Wagon, blue exterior & interior, stickshift, '88 or '92/93. (and turbo if they're shopping 740s)
--
'87 Blue 240 Wagon, and my 240 has 240K miles.
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I could use the pass. side tail light. Send details. My email is gpayne333@ameritech.net
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I sent you an email.
Oliver
--
1984 245......needs more giddyup
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Hey,
Is it a sedan? If it is, please reply, I need a rear bumper, along with driver side rear bumper moulding. Let me know!
Thanks, Smith
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yes smith, it is a sedan. I could definetly get those things. would you like to see a picture? i would send one now but it just got dark outside.
steven
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Hey again,
A picture would be great - email address is smith_t240@hotmail.com. I really need a bumper, mine fell off after I got rear-ended in the school parking lot. It ends up that the aluminum was real corroded after 18 Wisconsin winters, and frankly I'm not surprised. We have a ton of salt on the roads during the winter. The driver side bumper moulding I lost in the wind.
Be sure to check that aluminum is not corroded, I don't want the same thing to happen again. I'll pay what you charge, plus shipping. The person who hit me will be paying for this, as I saved him from the law; I didn't call the cops.
You can include the gas shocks, all hardware, clips to keep bumper on sides, aluminum attached to black cover. Email me, and we'll discuss more details.
Thanks man,
Smith T
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Steven -
If a 245, new sytle cloth interior, I might be interested if n nice condition.
--
1993 Volvo 245 with a banged up nose
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no sadly this is a four door. are you interested in some nose peices. both panels are good. one has a deccently patched hole in it. hood is nice. grill and lights are perfect.
color is white.
i'd be glad to send pics if youd like.
steven
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posted by
someone claiming to be toofourdy
on
Tue Jun 15 09:10 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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How the speedo work? I'd like your cable if it's cheap enough (I can't get to the ones at the yard because I can't get under them to screw it loose from the tranny). What's your email?
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speedometer is not great. its bouncy and sometimes drops out. i dont know if thats the cable or not. how much do they want at the yard? i can sell you this one for $10 +shipping?
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Bad news! The 1988 has the electric speedo, no cable at all. REtro fit means changing things in the rear axle to get the impulse sender.
Ask about tach & small clock stuff - they'll drop right into your 240.
Regards,
Bob
:>)
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my apologies. i was reading from my manual just as i was sending the post.
steven
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What kind of material on the seats? I could use a new cover for my drivers seat.
--
1985 240 DL, 1989 245 DL
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its blue cloth. if you want to see a picture i could send you one tomorrow?
steven
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yes, chuckbradley@psci.net
--
1985 240 DL, 1989 245 DL
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