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K-Jet Bucking! 200

ooohhh, its an '80 245 yep B21, manual...300,000mi.

I just cant seem to figure out why it bucks and hesitates and wont accelerate smoothly when its warm outside (above 75degrees)
Hate to say it but I have replaced a few parts: CPR, fuel accumulator, in-tank pump, main pump.....but I really believe this is only happening when it is over about 74 degrees outside. I diagnosed other parts awhileago and thought they were OK like the thermo-time switch, aux air, cold start inj., but I may have done it wrong. It drives fine in the winters of Wyoming but hot St.Louis always brings her down (for the past 2 years).

SO, what is a temperature sensitive part that would affect the fuel (or ignition) system so severely??
hey I appreciate the help everyone!
NOAH








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K-Jet Bucking! 200

Some months back I had a bucking problem. Turned out I had mixed resistor spark plugs with resistance wires (there are no warnings when you go to buy plugs about this). Too much resistance interferes with spark. When new the problem doesn't arise because the plugs are clean.

Your ignition coil output may also be affected by heat.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans








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K-Jet Bucking! 200 1980

Another thought...

You might have a faulty Fuel Pump Relay. It's a long shot, but I suppose temp differences could effect this as well.

Try taking yours out and resoldering it. In my '80, the fuel pump relay is found above the drivers feet, as pictured here:



Good Luck!
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as 'Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!'








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K-Jet Bucking! 200 1980

The temperature sensitive parts are basically the CPR, the AAV, the TTS which triggers the Cold Start Injector (CSI). These parts are their to assist on cold starts and running of a cold engine in order to get the engine up to normal operating temperature. The fuel accumulator is a part used to help with warms start though it is not temperature sensitive. The fuel accumulator maintains fuel line pressure after a shut down of the warmed up engine in order to prevent vapor lock in the fuel lines and to make warm start a lot easier. Your system could also be equipped with a Impulse Relay that basically is another TTS but for a warm engine. The Impulse Relay allows the CSI to spray fuel in pulses into the warm engine to help assist with the warm starts.

Usually bucking on a warm K-Jet engine means that your running too lean. Cracks in hoses, gaskets, worn injector seals, or a cracked/worn fuel distribuotr boot all cause air to sneak by the Air Flow Sensor plate in the fuel distributor thus not allowing the correct fuel mixture to enter the engine. The AFS needs to measure all air entering the engine in order to move the fuel distributor plunger enough so the injectors get the right amount of fuel. To help troubleshoot air leaks you could get a spray bottle filled with water and squirt water everywhere a hose meets, runs, where gaskets meet, all around the fuel distributor boot, and all around the injector seals. The water will close any air leaks and help raise the idle for a second thus telling you that air is entering the system at the location you just sprayed. You can also you carb/intake cleaner if you have some on-hand.

If your car has the Lambda Sond System the you should make sure that the grounds that connect to the intake manifold for the O2 Sensor System are tight and clean. I had lot of bucking on my 79 264GL with the K-Jet system and it ended up being that the Lambda Sond (O2) System was not grounded well enough so it would be turning off and on. In turn the frequency valve that the system controls was not allowing enough fuel into the engine so I was always running very lean.

Finally, some K-Jets did come with a Constant Idle Sysytem (CIS) that used a small microswitch by the throttle spool to determine when the throttle was fully closed so that the system could regulate the idle in order to keep the idle steady. If the microswitch by the throttle spool does not click the instant the throttle is opened then the engine could still be thinking the throttle is fully closed thus it is not allowing the K-Jet System to take over and deliver the right amount of fuel to the engine. Instead it is sending only a small amount of fuel into the engine in order to maintain the smooth idle thus you buck cause your running to lean.

My time with the K-Jets System always points me to air leaks that cause the lean idle (with the exception of the O2 System ground). Take a good luck under the hood and see what you can find. I have included a diagram that has the standard layout of the K-Jet System to give you an idle where air leaks can be found. There are a lot of people that will say that a K-Jet car will never hold a steady idle and thats just bull. Both my 79 264GL & my 79 262C hold a steady idle no matter if the engine is cold or warm. My 84 245DL has a hunting idle and I'm still working on it but it goes to show you that any system can be made to work right if it gets the right kind of attention. Hope this information helps. Good Luck!



Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza

1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood

1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F

1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile








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K-Jet Bucking! 200

There's a thermal sensor on the engine that relays engine temperature which is utilized in setting the fuel mixture. Perhaps the sensor is bad. Perhaps the wiring to the sensor is bad. I see it's a 1980 240. Perhaps the whole wiring harness needs to be replaced. I've read many stories about gremlins that couldn't be traced that magically disappear when a new wiring harness is installed. The wiring harnesses on the 240 series were "biodegradable" up to the 1987 or 1988 model year I think. Could be time for a new harness.








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K-Jet Bucking! 200

Ive replaced the wiring harness....
Air leaks are a distinct possibility, but im trying to believe that this is a temperature-related problem (maybe I have a temperature-related air leak)

isnt this fun!!??








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K-Jet Bucking! 200 1980

Air leaks could be from different temps.

When hoses get hotter, they expand a bit. There might be some hairline cracks that open up a bit when they heat up.

Replace all vacuum hoses, and maybe clean out the throttle body. It can make a big difference.

Although I find it hard to believe that the temp outside would make much of a difference... Once the car is warm it's the same temperature under the hood during the summer as it is during the winter (for the most part)...

I also drive a 1980 245. Great car, I'll never sell it.

Congratulations on the 300K miles. I remember when my wagon turned 300K like it was... Wait, that was a long time ago... (heh heh heh)

Good luck!
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as 'Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!'








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K-Jet Bucking! 200 1980

I have been driving the 'Beast' for about 15 years now. I replaced some of the intake hoses the first few years and none since. I do not have a problem with bucking idle. This lack of maintenance to the hoses and no idle problem leads me to conclude the hose may not be the problem. However, a loose or missing hose will cause this problem.
I did have a problem with a broken plastic fitting at the power brake booster once which caused very rough running. Check this area.







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