i have a 1987 240 dl station wagon. the car won't start all the way by which i mean it isn't completely turning over. it has been taking a while to start lately. i had recently replaced the distributor cap and spark plugs. a neighbor helping me to troubleshoot thinks it might not be get engough fuel to the engine. i don't know what it is please help me.

Connect a jumper wire from the Left side of fuse 6 to the Left side of fuse 4.
Both Fuel pumps should run immediately. Try starting the engine.

If it starts, the problem is in the Fuel system (bypassed by jumper). Car can be driven with jumper in place, if necessary.

If it still doesn't start, suspect an ignition problem (Ignition failure will automatically prevent Fuel system operation).


Details —
Fuse 6 (Left contact) contact is a voltage source (6—10 are always hot). Fuse cover labeling for #6 is wrong. It's not connected to anything on the '87 LH FI system.
Fuse 4 Left side goes to Main pump, Right side (thru fuse) to Tank pump.
Jumper wire bypasses 25 amp fuse and Fuel relay. Puts voltage where relay would if all was well.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Checked the coil wire & ignition wires all properly connected, my Dad doubled checked. 25 AMP fuse clean and intact. Car will "start" but not start started will jumping fuse 4 & 6 also by past fuel pump relay?

thanks

Car will "start" but not start started
You mean it wont stay running? Or what? If it starts with the 4&6 jumper in place, it will probably stall again if you take the jumper off.

will jumping fuse 4 & 6 also by past fuel pump relay?
Yes, it bypasses the 25 amp fuse AND the Fuel relay. As I said, it puts the voltage right where the Fuel relay normally does, as far as the fuel pumps are concerned.

The fact that it starts (if it does) means the the ignition is OK, and the fuse jumper is making up for a fuel system problem.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

i AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 89 240DL..IS THIS INFORMATION THE SAME FOR ME? THANKS

i AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 89 240DL..IS THIS INFORMATION THE SAME FOR ME? THANKS

Yes, as far as jumpering the fuses to bypass the 25 amp fuse and the Fuel Relay. But I'm not sure the poster has a fuel problem, since apparently it does fire—but fails to keep running.

If that's your symptoms, test the AMM by trying to start with the AMM Unplugged. If it starts and idles OK, the AMM is failing, and the car is running in "limp home mode". Despite the term, it will barely run above idle.


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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Car will crank over and start with a constant pumping of the gas pedal but will not idle or stay running for more a minute, and while running it is very rough and does not always get over 2 to 3 grand on the tack. One fuel pump was replaced two years ago and both fuel filters have been replaced.

Thanks for any help, I going off to College the 25th and don't want parents forking out major bucks after giving them the bill for my books.

"Car will crank over and start...

That's different than the "won't start" in your subject line. So my suggestion and most of the others are off the mark. Could be many things, big air leak, maybe a bad AMM, etc.

I suggest you start a new thread, with words like, "Won't idle or stay running properly" for the Subject line.

You can also explore the 700/900 FAQ (Drop-down Menu above) for symptopms like yours, as the B230F engine is basically the same for 200/700/900 cars (except for ignition and distributor).
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

25 amp fuse just aft of the battery. Clean or replace.
Fuel pump relay, do you hear the pump? Resolder or replace or bypass.

Did you change the rotor too? My 240 died and wouldn't start, just cough a little and sort of run a little for just a few moments. Turned out the rotor had a crack that screwed up the spark getting to the plugs. Rotor replaced and all better now.

If you've changed the dist cap and plugs then maybe the firing order is off. 1-3-4-2 clockwise with 1 at about 7 to 8 o'clock on dist.

Also, make sure the cap is properly seated.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

Your information is a little confussig to me. Do you mean that when you turn the key the motor will not make a complete revolution as in, it sounds like it is just bumping the motor about half way over? Or do you mean that it will turn over when you turn the key but just will not start runing? As in the motor spins but does not catch and run.

i mean that the engine will turn over but won't start running like a regular start.

First, make certain the plug wires are connected up correctly. Look at the diagram and look at how you set them up to see if it is right. Second, I just had a similar problem caused by using too much anti-seize on the spark plugs. Seems the generations of mechanics before me had also used anti-seize and it built up to the point it was fouling the plugs and causing eletrical problems. MY bet is the wires are not right.