Recently I have been having trouble with my car. I have an 89 Volvo 240 DL. If I drive it for a long distance, when I shut off the car it will not start again until I let it sit for a long time. I finally did a test and checked the alternator and then replaced it. After all that alternator work, the battery was shot. I had the battery recharged with no luck, so I bought a new one. Before I put in the alternator the car would not start at all, not it starts but will not fully turn over. I went out this morning to check it to see if it would turn over and the car cranked right up. I let it run for about 15 minutes. I turned the car on about three times there after. Then I went to get in it to go somewhere and it would not turn over all the way again. I don't know what to do now. I have done my best troubleshooting it and have just ran into a dead end. Can someone help me?

Remove the fuses and clean the ends with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Also clean the fuse holder terminals. I had a similar intermittent problem on an 83 and it ended up being corrosion on fuse 12. Also try running a jumper wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the positive side of the coil and crank it over. jp

Your description is confusing, cannot be sure what you are trying to describe.

Crank = starter is turning the engine
Start = engine fires up and runs after starter does it's job.

Turn over. Don't know what you mean, can you define.
Not start. Do you mean engine cranks but does not start or do you mean that it does not crank.


I could guess and try to read between your lines. Is the starter cranking the engine too slowly as if indicating a weak battery? If yes there are a few posible causes, all easily diagnosed with a meter, guessing won't work.
You should be aware that Advance, Pep Boys and others will test and diagnose the battery/alternator/starter circuit, no charge.

Is starter cranking the engine at normal speed but engine fails to start and run? If yes more info needed to diagnose.

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David Hunter

Sorry about my verbage. I appreciate you trying to help. When I turn the key it begins to start but never completely starts. I hold the key for aobut 2 seconds and then release it because I dont want to fluid the engine. Does this help? Thank you for your time.

So is it correct to say that cranking speed of the starter is normal. That would mean that battery/alternator is OK.... correct?
If yes then we would need to know what you mean by not completely starts. Does engine seems to be attempting to fire and start, perhaps not firing on all cylinders? Can you describe more?
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David Hunter

I went to start the car again and it would not start.

I have a brand new battery and alternator. When I turn the key all the necessary this work to get the car to start, but then it does not complete start. If I keep holding the key i know that it will flood the engine. I went under the sterring column and took out a fuse that looks like a little box, and the car started right up. Im not sure if I need to replace that now or what.

During the no start condition you need to know if there is spark at the plugs. This will help to narrow down the problem. You must crank it as long as necessary to do the test. Do not worry about flodding.
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David Hunter

Sounds like you have a Cranking ("turn over") problem rather than a true "no start". I suggest you do a thorough cleaning—wire brush and/or sandpaper— of both battery cables. To be safe, make sure you disconnect the Negative cable FIRST).

Pay special attention to the ends that connect the Negative cable to ground at the engine and body — and the Positive cable at the starter (13mm wrench).

Poor electrical contact at any of these points can mimic battery or alternator problems (i.e., The Alternator output goes first to the Starter connection, THEN up to the Battery—and the grounds are essential for complete current flow. A poor ground wire at the Alternator will reduce or prevent voltage output.)
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Will/does the car run if you floor the pedal while turning the key? The reason I ask is you may be having hot start problems because of vapor lock. Ie. The fuel system is losing pressure with the pumps off allowing engine heat to vaporize gas and giving hard start problems. If so, may be your fuel pressure regulator (I've only worked on carbed engines, so it's a guess).
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

Vapor lock is rarely a problem on fuel injected cars. In the case of the 240, the high-pressure pump is under the car, just forward of the rear axle below the left passenger seat, far from most sources of heat (with the exception of any hot air from an inconsiderate passenger on the trip back from the Tex-Mex restaurant).

It will send cool tank gas up to the engine, and anything not used gets immediately returned to the tank, so the lines will cool down rather quickly and any possible vapor lock will be long gone by the first couple of engine revolutions. A check valve in the main pump will also keep the fuel under (relatively) high pressure, further lessening any chance of vapor lock.

However, your flooding theory is still a valid possibility, especially if the cold-start injector is firing for no valid reason. And yes, the fuel pressure regulator could indeed be faulty.

That said, these 'no-start' investigations can go in about ten different directions until the obvious things are taken care of, starting with the definition of 'no-start' ;)