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Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

posted by  someone claiming to be richard on  Sun Sep 26 11:08 CST 2004 [RELATED]

I love my 1968 122S, which is completely original.(Twin carbs, 4spd w/ OD, etc). I don't want to vary from original too much, but I would appreciate some tips on two or three things I can do to add a little zip to it without putting a strain onthe engine or tranny.

Also, can anyone tell me if sway bars are worth the investment?

Thanks.








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    Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

    uid 7678's pic
    posted by  Yvan Lacroix on  Mon Sep 27 13:46 CST 2004
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    last visit: Fri Oct 3 13:45 CST 2014
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    I will say ditto on the engine tuning points, and add that a goob used B20f(or preferably an e) with the injector holes plugged will also help for not much money. This may also provide a nice winter project, rebuilding a b20 to stock specs is not hard and not that expensive. As for the sway bars they are a must have! Yes on wet pavement, in an unbanked curve , with a heathy dose of throttle, the tail will hang out. If you have driven a RWD car in the winter this should not be an issue( I once had a 244 with a larger than stock rear sway bar(on purpose)and I could "hang the rear out" at will, it was fun, but had to be treated with respect)

    Merci

    Yvan
    --
    65 122, 73 P1800ES, 79 242GT, 80 262C, 81 242, 87 780,88 745T X2, and a plethora of parts cars and eventually to be finished projects








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    Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

    posted by  Phil S. on  Sun Sep 26 11:29 CST 2004
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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    In order of importance:

    1) Tune what you have really, really well. Carbs and distributor must work like new. Do a really accurate valve adjustment.

    2) Much larger exhaust pipe, retaining the original manifold and downpipes. Run this straight under the axle instead of looping it around. Muffler goes as far back as possible, preferably between the gas tank and quarter panel. This is better than the cheap headers being commonly sold.

    3) Shave the head to bring compression up from 8.7:1 to 10.0:1. That's 115 HP instead of 90 right there.

    4) Volvo D cam instead of the stock C cam.

    After that, you're looking at real money to do anything effective.

    A heavier front sway bar is very, very worthwhile after you've ensured the rest of the suspension and steering stuff is 100% good. A front/rear set is nice for sporty driving with limited power available.








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      Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

      posted by  mjamgb on  Mon Sep 27 05:56 CST 2004
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      last visit: Tue Sep 4 14:53 CST 2012
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      I'd add:
      1) Make certain all the bits are cleaned and properly lubricated. A-1 problem with dizzys is improper lubrication and build-up of grime under the breaker plate where you normally don't look.
      2) Unless you rally and jump the 'ol girl, the rear axle rarely goes to full droop except when you jack it up to change tires. A small "wow" in the pipe will allow it to go under w/o interference.
      3) & 4) Yup, OK. Might as well optimise the valvetrain while you are there. Money spent on the intake/exhaust ports is well spent here to take full advantage of the more effective exhaust pipe.
      I'm not convinced that a rear sway bar is a good idea on a solid rear axle car but that is a matter of opinion. Generally, heavier rear springs will provide the same effect without providing oversteer at the limit that a rear bar tends to induce.
      Another area to cheaply assist performance is to reduce parasitic losses. ensuring that the drive-train is up to snuff and well lubricated will help there. Use of synthetic oils has proven to be effective (but conventional wisdom says not to use them in the O/D tranny... I'm still a little skeptical but...). Replacement of the engine driven fan with an electric one, altering pulley size to under-drive the water pump and alternator. Alternator instead of generator, etc...

      Mike!








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        Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

        posted by  Phil S. on  Mon Sep 27 07:23 CST 2004
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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        I'm not convinced that a rear sway bar is a good idea on a solid rear axle car but that is a matter of opinion. Generally, heavier rear springs will provide the same effect without providing oversteer at the limit that a rear bar tends to induce.

        Both of mine, which have stiffer springs all around, are definitely tail-happy at 10/10ths with the rear bar -- it's way too easy to kick the back end around with throttle. At 8/10ths, the rear bar gives the steering a more precise feel and turn-in is quicker.

        The front bar is a must unless you drive on really rough roads a good deal of the time. The rear depends on how you drive, how much power is available, and a dozen other factors.








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      Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

      posted by  vortex on  Sun Sep 26 20:25 CST 2004
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      last visit: Wed Jul 31 04:12 CST 2013
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      Phil

      How would the positioning of the exhaust pipe under the rear axle be affected with the up and downward movement of the rear axle?








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        Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

        posted by  Phil S. on  Mon Sep 27 05:45 CST 2004
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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        Of course the pipe is mounted on the body, not the axle, so it doesn't move. There's plenty of room, even for a 3" pipe. On both our 1800 and 122, the axle just contacts the top of the pipe with the axle at full droop, car on stands. I've had no ground clearance issues either.








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          Adding zip to a '68 122S. 120-130 1968

          posted by  hans on  Mon Sep 27 08:57 CST 2004
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          last visit: Sun Oct 19 15:26 CST 2014
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          For a general purpose car having your exhaust going under the rear axle is really not neccessary, a 2.5 inch exhaust will go over the axle and be more practical if not the last word in performance, I run a D cam in a B18 and I'm not really happy with it for everyday use, its an absolute delight on the highway and country roads but around town it's not ideal. I suppose you have to decide how much power you want and what you are prepared to give up to get it.
          Hans
          NZ







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