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I have a 1983 244 turbo that I need to change the timing belt on. I was looking in my Bently manual and I found somethings that make me wonder if I can actually do the job or not. It looks like I need to have Volvo Special tool 5284. Is this something that I can buy at my dealor for a hopefully reasonable price or just find anywhere? Also, "if the old belt has broken,m or if the camshaft sproket must be rotated more than a few degrees to align the timing marks, first turn the crankshaft slightly away from TDC in either direction. This is to guard against piston to valve contact. Sounds a little scarry. Bently also cautioned that" The hole in the crankshaft pulley must engage the guide pin on the crankshaft. If the pulley is installed misaligned, severe engine and accessory damage may occur." This makes me feel like I'm playing with fire. Do you have any advice. I would like to do this and learn, but I don't want to ruin the engine in my car either. I was thinking that this would be a fairly risk free project, but Bently makes it sound like a life and death situation. Please excuse my ignorance and happy bricking!
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Okay, I think that I'm going to pull it in the grage in the next coulple of days and get started on it. I figure that everyone who does timing belts has done a 1st timing belt, so I just need to be patient and I should be able to do it. I hope. Thanks for the encouragement!
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Warning: Performing a timing belt change will encourage you to tackle larger maintenance projects on your brick. :)
Good luck on the procedure, it's really not a hard job, after your first time you'll do it in 60 minutes flat. Thankfully these engines aren't screwed you mess things up. No stress (unless you need the car to go to work later in the afternoon or the next day!).
Bean
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'80 242GT 93k, '94 945T 139k, '89 765T 68k (new '94 B230FT)
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It's more of a hassle getting to the timing belt then changing it. Lining up the sprockets is easy once you find the timing marks. Getting the belt to slide on can be a bit tricky. But it's pretty straightforward. After doing it, you may even question why it costs so much to get a shop to do it.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans
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The B21FT engines don't need the special Volvo tool to hold the crank. Check out the rope trick in the FAQ, works like a charm. Make sure cylinder #1 is in it's compression stroke by looking through the oil filler cap, the cam lobes should look like rabbit ears (both sticking up).
To remove the crankshaft pulley, mostly to change the v-belts, there are some nuts and bolts that hold the two halves together. When you remove them you'll probably find some shims inside the pulley and also some between the pulley, make a mental note of how many shims there are between and re-assemble the same way. This is how belt tension is adjusted for (at least) the A/C compressor.
The job is really quite easy to do, read up on the posts/FAQ here, and post any questions while performing the job.
Bean
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'80 242GT 93k, '94 945T 139k, '89 765T 68k (new '94 B230FT)
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I think many first-timers have trouble with the double-line (crank sprocket) belt mark. That's where I start. Here's what works for me:
To use the belt marks, I start by wrapping the belt up under the crank sprocket to align the double mark with the 0° tooth (or space--I forget), then jam a special tool (scrap wood) under the sprocket to keep the belt engaged—because it will unwrap away from the 0° reference.
Then I pull the belt up and align the 1st single mark at the Int. sprocket. I keep the belt engaged there with a small, screw-type hose pincher, and do the same when I pull the belt up to align the 2nd single mark at the Cam sprocket.
With the belt secured at all 3 sprockets, both hands are free to work the belt over the tensioner, which I previously squeezed back farther (than the 3mm hole) with big MF waterpumps, holding it there with the locknut.
When the belt is on the tensioner, release the locknut for tension, then tighten the nut and rotate the crank around again to 0° on the Crank sprocket. Make sure the Cam and Crank 0° references still agree—and that the distributor rotor points at the #1 plug wire tower. Ignore the belt marks—they won't line up anymore, as they are ONLY for initial belt positioning.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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I leave the tensioner "hanging". I pull it out to the end of the anchor bolt/shaft and allow it to sit at an angle. This allows me to slide the belt onto the tensioner enough (almost all the way). From there it's easy to work the tensioner assembly all the way onto the bolt/shaft and then seat the nub that goes into the head.
I haven't used clamps on the pulleys yet, will have to try that next time which will be a long time from now! I love the 100k miles changes on the '94 B230FT engines! GT belt is brand new.
Bean
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'80 242GT 93k, '94 945T 139k, '89 765T 68k (new '94 B230FT)
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Good point on the timing belt marks. It took me a while to figure out the belt marks would not line up again. I agree. I did the crank first. Then the intermediate shaft, then the cam. It's also good to get a spare set of hands when you're getting it all lined up. I think the only two things that were a bit problematic were: (1) getting the belt that goes on the crank pulley and a/c compressor off/on (I ended up cutting the old belt and bumping the motor to pop the new belt on); and (2) the process of finding top dead center, performing rope trick, and lining up marks on the shafts when installing the belt. I think people's biggest fear is getting the car out of time, but if you take your time and pay attention, it's not a hard job.
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Which engine did you have trouble getting the A/C belt on? If the B21F, the crank pulley separates in half with 6 or 8 nuts/bolts, the belt is positioned and then pulley re-assembled. The B230F/T has adjustable A/C compressor to reduce/increase belt tension.
Glad the engine bump worked for you.
Bean
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'80 242GT 93k, '94 945T 139k, '89 765T 68k (new '94 B230FT)
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B23F. I simply could not figure it out.
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I changed the timing belt on my 83 245 this weekend with the B23. Not a turbo obviously, but don't let the instructions you find overwhelm you. The job was fine and I consider myself a fairly poor mechanic. My car is a non-interference engine. The only "trick" to doing the job is finding top dead center and keeping the car from moving off it while loosening the crank bolt. I used the rope trick and it worked like a charm for loosening the bolt. My only piece of advice I have is to drive the car up on ramps or jackstands. It was much easier for me to get under the car to look to make sure my crank marks were lined up when installing the belt than it was to try to view it from above. Make sure you get the marks on the belt itself lined up with the marks on the crank, intermediate shaft, and cam pulleys as getting the belt a tooth or more off will cause problems. However, this isn't a big deal to do either. Again, this isn't that bad of a job.
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The tool, designed for the B230, does not work well for the B21 pulley. You do not need it if you only have the B21 to change. Bentley is wrong about engine damage.
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That is a non interference engine, the pistons won't contact the valves, it just won't run right if you get it off.
Fcp groton has the tool $45 http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvoengine/volvoengb230f.htm
Read the section in the 700/900 faqs for timing belts, all your questions should be answered there.
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '82 Mercedes 300SD
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