Has anybody had experience with unheated Lambda Sonds on a standard LH2.4 B230F? It's clear you'll get that OBD error code, but is it better than nothing (no working o2 sensor)? The sensor is to be mounted in the cat, as usually. Do I get MPG improvement compared to "default" rich mixture ECU mapping?

I was going to put a 1 wire sender on a LH2.4 car. Then I found the part number for a universal Bosch 3 wire sender and NAPA had them for about $35 IIRC. A little curtting and splicing was neccesary but nothing too tough. I can't for the life of me find the part number at the moment but for me, the $25 savings wasn't worth having the wrong part in there.

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Volvo Farmer:

20 Volvos '58-'91

I would rather not have the red check engine light on covering up some other problem. Go to Auto Zone and get a Bosch 13913 for $40 and splice it on to your connector. Dan

just bought one on eBay. I understand that they are made for some Ford model, but that splicing the three wires to the LH 2.4 connections shoudl work fine.

With a little luck, I will post back when I get it installed.

Bob

:>)

Although I have no CE light on my Euro '88 Euro, 15 MPG and raw gas smell from the exhaust pipe are saying the same thing to me as that red bulb.

Just was curious if it's possible to save some money on the sensor. 3-wire costs same as two 1-wire ones.

IF

Suppose everyone is recommending these cheap heated sensors available in the US. You may not have the options quite so inexpensive.

What could be expensive is a misdiagnosis of your rich running, placing the blame on the default rich map caused by a dead O2 sensor. You don't say how you arrived at that conclusion, which I rather doubt given your extremely low MPG. I doubt this because I believe (without hard fact to back it up) the default map for no O2 sensor transitions results in maybe 22 MPG instead of 27.

You could soot up your new O2 sensor in a day's driving if that's the case.

Also LH2.4 sensors were placed at different locations, but all well out of the hot spot the unheated sensors worked well in. But a nagging thought about all that gas flowing through your catalyst makes me wonder if it isn't all that cool back there after all. Sounds like an FPR to me by the way. Or plugs?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore Crrrrazy Ray's!

I used a 1-wire O2 sensor with my Saab 900T that had LH 2.4, and it
didn't turn on the Check Engine light. The fuel injection computer
didn't check whether the heater circuit was complete or not. The
only problem was that if you let the car idle in traffic for more
than 15 min, the sensor would cool down enough to stop working and
trip the Check Engine light. Soon after you moved off, the sensor
heated back up and the light went off.

If you want a cheap 3-wire sensor, use Bosch #13913 - splice the
wires to the original harness with crimp-connects, don't solder them.

-b.