Hello,

After discussing my coolant issues on this board and receiving great info, I have ordered a water pump along with some hoses to replace it myself on my 1990 760 GLE.

I already have the pump today and although it looks like the right one, is there a way to check that they really gave me the right pump for my car from the GMB part number? The reference on it is 190-1050 and also GWVO-05A. Just for the peace of mind.

Aside from that I have a couple pre-installation questions.

1) the torque. I have read that the torque used to attach the pump back on should be more or less precisely what Volvo recommends. What are the inexpensive ways to make sure that the torque is right? Is it such a big deal? (can't I just "tighten it but not too much"?)

2) there is a hole on the left side of the new pump. On the old pump, that hole has a bolt in it, in order to keep it closed. It happens that it's one of the leaky points. There is a hole on the right side but it has something plugged into it. However, the new pump does not come with that bolt to plug the left-side hole. Can one buy that? Or do I try to clean the old one and put it into the new one with sealant?

and I guess there's no number 3 for now...:)

Thanks guys.

Hello David:

There are two types of pumps out there, and the parts suppliers often get them wrong (e.g. supplying a B28 water pump when you want a B280F). Count the mounting bolt holes-- I think the distinction is 5 versus 4 bolts.

Most B280F pumps require that you switch over the back housing portion from the old pump and replace the gasket between the main pump body and the housing. They are held together with allen bolts, if memory serves. Careful removing them-- they are prone to the dissimilar metals problem of corrosion around the threads. Use gasket sealer on the mating surfaces and make sure the mating surfaces aren't too pitted, or it will leak.

You will also have to switch over the coolant temp sensor from the old pump. Getting the hoses connected at the back of the pump can be a challenge.

The torque on the bolts is not that critical-- tighten them all firmly and evenly by with a standard 3/8 ratchet handle and you will be fine. Antiseize compound is your friend on all these fasteners!

I can't visualize the issues with the bolt holes-- if you have a digital camera, post a picture and somebody here will be able to help. I suspect it is simply a case of multiple applications and blocking one hole or another off. Check if your old one uses a copper crush washer under the bolt-- if so get a new one from Volvo.

Is there play in the shaft of your water pump now? I had one self destruct in a snowstorm at 4PM on Christmas Eve in the boonies of southwestern Ontario!

Replace all the drive belts when you do this job-- there is no better time, given that the alternator/water pump belts have to come off for the job.

Good luck-- let us know how it goes!

--
Herb Goltz, London, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/109K mi

Thank you for your answer!

I haven't taken the old pump out yet, and I just can't see how many bolts are attaching it to the rear cover/housing where you have to fit that large gasket). The new pump has 4 holes for that, and 3 bolts to attach it to the block. The reason why I'm anxious to learn if it's the right one is because I'm just too darn unlucky with that (purchasing stuff and having it run right out of the box).

For the hole on the side of the pump, here is the photo I posted a few days ago, where you can see clearly where one of the leaks is coming from that hole that is closed by a bolt. The new pump has the same hole but didn't come with that bolt. I guess cleaning the bolt and sealing it should work.



I didn't check for play in the pump. The whole thing looks so bad that there's no question that it needs to be changed. The first few days I didn't have proper lighting in the garage or a good flashlight, but when I look now I can see clearly the leak from that hole. Also, the lower radiator hose connection on the pump is totally messed up and the clamp torn apart. The hose to one of the gasket isn't better, and the short fat hose on the back of the rear housing is the same, clamp torn apart and rotten, fluid leaking out of there, and the hose bulging. It's just a mess. I'll have to clean this all up even before I mount the new stuff in. It's full of green goo.

Thanks for the tips on treating the surfaces and the rest!

If I'm courageous enough, all that stuff should come out tomorrow night...

When i put the back cover on those V6 pumps... first i get a nice piece of 600 grit wetordry sandpaper, put the paper down on a piece of glass gritty side up, and pour on a lil oil, and lap the mating surface of the cover nice and flat. That seems to work VERY well at getting a leak-free union with the pump. I coat all mating surfaces (housing, cover, and both sides of the gasket) with Permatex Hi-Tack gasket adhesive and give it a lil dry time. Then i slap it together, starting all the allen screws by hand, and then use the L wrench to lightly tighten all screws in a 'star'pattern, working back and forth and using the wrench with the 'long' side poking into the screw so i cant 'overtighten'. Then I flip the wrench around so i have more mechanical advantage, and tighten each one a 1/4 turn more following the same pattern.

With regard to the 'plug', I would just clean it real good with a wire brush on the threads and put some thread sealer on it.
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

Thanks for the great tips!

Little by little, I come to know exactly what to do with that pump (the hardest thing I had ever done before, aside from checking the fluids, is change the air filter on my 240...).

Since you are used to changing the pumps on the V6, do you know exactly what it looks like on the 1990 (B280F)? Does it have 4 bolts to attach it to the back cover?

The only water pump i worked on (on a 700 series car) was my brother's 760GLE, which as it turns out, was a B28F and not the B280F. All the others were B27/28F's on 200 series cars. Strikingly similar in appearance but different enough to cause confusion! Once you get this six wrangled I am hoping it will be as good to you as mine have been to me.

1976 260 wagon B27F, M46 >>> drove for 5 years (bought in '87, rain casualty, jeep rear ended it doing 40)

1976 260 wagon B27F, AW55 >> drove for 9 years (sold to me late '91 as "doesnt run", bought for chassis to replace above, fixed it and drove til trans went)

1980 262C coupe B28F, M46 >>>8 years (bought off original owner in '96, still runs good and I have it stashed away, drove it for 5 of the 8 years)

The turbo sedan is my all around car and was another lucky find, only 156K on the clock as of yet, I've been driving this one for five years. The coupe will leave this sedan in the dust any day of the week. I should find an intercooler kit for it and mess with it's limit switches and boost actuator (a la Turbobricker style) but I don't want to blow it up quite yet. Why am i talking about this car anyways? It isn't even a V6 and doesnt belong in this discussion.

Anyhow i did water pumps on all those cars plus some friends' V6 cars. The job really isnt that bad, not like pulling a head or anything. You can do eeet!
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

One more question on this.

There are 2 belts that need to be removed in order to take the water pump out. On this car, the timing belt doesn't need to be touched, which is good :)

But is there anything in particular to look out for regarding the other belts? Anything to do to retighten them if needed?

I'm pretty sure that the belts are removed simply by loosening and adjusting your alternator, very easy. And you have the later style fan/clutch assembly, which is a lot easier to deal with than the old bearing type on my wagons.

With regard to a timing 'belt', your car uses chains that are located under that timing cover that your prior thread talked about.
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

Thanks for more info!

And I have some more questions (don't worry, this will all stop after I have actually replaced it, until the next thing I have to fix...).

I keep reading about many seals and gaskets to replace along with the pump. The pump comes with that large flat gasket (between the pump and back housing, no problem for this one), a large-ish round rubber seal, and a larger parper/cardboard-like donut. Actually I'm glad I read about the paper thing because I could have thrown it away as packing/protection material! So I'm sure I can figure out where those go, but do I need more seals than the ones that come with the pump? I did order a gasket/seal kit from fcpgroton, but I just realized they are not for this model of pump...(but maybe most of them would be the same?).

Do I need to go out and buy some specific new seals in order to do the job?

David.

Well, lemme see, since you have no intake manifold to pull, you don't have half the stuff to even worry about that I have to think of when I do it. You know the thermostat is under that lil cover on top of the pumphousing right? Optimum time to test or replace that and replace the seal. And there might be a temp sender to swap over and a lil seal on that too. Is there a Y-pipe on tha back of the water pump, connected to the block? The ends of the Y pipe that bolt to the block have some O-rings in a groove. That's all i can think of for now.
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

OK. I am going to replace the thermostat anyway. That is coming in the mail with the hoses. Maybe those few seals that need to be replaced will be the same as in the kit I'm going to receive. Otherwise I'm sure a local store will have them.

I don't think there's an Y pipe like the one you mention. I'm asking a lot of questions when the best thing to do is probably just the whole stuff out and look, but I like being prepared :)

Quite an impressive array of Volvos :)

I'd love to have one of those coupes! They are beautiful. Our 240 Wagon looks great and is working very reliably (despite needing a new catalytic converter) at over 225000 miles (just had a joint replaced on the main driveshaft, the car was starting to shake horribly).

This 760 is a great car. Driving is so smooth, and it's got every option you would want inside a car including high comfort (not enough space for my legs in the 240), including a brand new cd player, and all for 1200 bucks. After a few things are repaired or replaced (Replacing the fuel door hinge and putting that door back on was a huge improvement, hehehe, I need to tackle the seats, lumbar support, power antenna, and other little things etc...) it will look and feel like new. Spent hours cleaning it inside out, carpets, wheel scrubbing, those people were not very good with it.

However, I might start saving money for when I can find a beautiful 262C :)

"Quite an impressive array of Volvos :)"- It was an interesting sight when I had all of them in the driveway at once. Now, I'm just down to the two listed on my sig.

Not enough room for your legs? I'm 6'2", and one of my friends is 6'8" and has fit in all my cars with no problem. I think later cars have two sets of mounting points and you can just unbolt the seat and move it to the 'rear' position. You must be really tall.

Any money spent repairing these cars is basically worth it. I feel like I have been driving them straight to the bank, watching everyone around me waste piles of cash on new cars while i continue to zoom around in the same old rides. Oftentimes my cars have proven themselves more reliable (yes, even the V6's!) than these "new" cars.

With regard to a coupe, I don't recommend you get one until you are VERY familiar with working on a V6, have a pile of money to throw at it, or plan to convert it to a 4 cylinder. While it IS possible that you might find a well cared for good running car, that's the exception rather than the rule and in most cases your monies are better spent getting a good deal on one that doesnt run, and converting it to 4 cylinder (turbo :)?) power. I have also found it can be difficult to find anyone capable of restoring the leather seats in that car to their former glory, fewer real craftsmen in the automotive trades these days. Have you seen the interior of one of those cars? Totally impressive, talk about luxury. I might wind up having to buy some hides here and drive down to Mexico for that one. No severe damage, but the foam IS getting very old and there are a few tears in some seams like in the center under the rear window where the hot California sun beats down on it constantly. I have this car stashed away so it doesnt get any worse (also avoiding taxes and smog testing fees but that is a different rant) while i continue to hunt for a job and round up the funds to completely refurbish it. Estimate- $6-10K, but money well spent... paint, top, interior, suspension, B21FTi, E codes, later dash, yummmm. I can see keeping this car for another couple of decades easily (or taking that long to fix it up, one of the two har har).
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

I've seen the interior of the coupe on photos and it does look great, especially with the black leather. The leather in my 760 is not great and needs some work (and the padding as well), but it's secondary to the engine fixes it needs.

With regards to the leg room, I am shorter than you are, but somehow my legs and feet are always folded too much (besides not having enough space for the right foot down there). I already took the seats out one to pul the carpets up a few years ago and did notice that the seat could be mounted further away on another set of mounting points, but I was hesitant to pull them out again without being sure. It's probably what it is.