OK ....... most of the time.

The only negative symptom demonstrated after it gets running and warms up - is a hesitancy at intersections - fluttering the gas pedal helps...

It can sit for 6-8 hours during the day - and starts just fine - but if it sits overnight - the next morning - starting is difficult or impossible - smells like a flood problem - so right now - it is unreliable at best.

So far - I have cleaned the AIC valve, throttle body, electrical contacts at coil, spades on coil - etc.

Removing the AMM wiring clip makes no difference.....

Replaced rotor and dist. cap.......

All christmas volvo Solutions are most welcome :)

Thanks in advance...

Gord Hull

Red Deer AB

I agree with Phil- that check valve could be the source of your trouble. If you wanted to get fancy and build a fuel pressure tester as shown in the older pics in the archives, you could verify that fuel pressure is the problem.

Cut off an old fuel rail end, and the fuel hose that mates to it, and put in a tee with a gauge. If you find that you have no pressure as you crank the engine, that would be your problem. The check valve should relieve some of that keeping fuel supply up to the rail ready to go.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 234K, '82 245T/M46-182K, '84 242DL/AW70-100K, '89 244DL/AW70- 212K and I miss my: 86 244DL 215K, 87 244DL 239K, 88 744GLE 233K, 88 244GL 147K, 91 244 183K

Thanks for the idea.....

One question - I failed to note in my original posting - when trying to start the brick first thing in the morning - it cranks - does not fire - but there is a strong gasoline smell - as if it were flooding out....

I know little about the AMM - although others have suggested I look at that as a solution also...

And a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL !!!!

Gord Hull

Red Deer AB CA

I had similar symptoms on my '86 recently. My problem was a defective fuel pump check valve. A replacement Bosch check valve was around $12 from FCP. Good luck

-phil

Thanks for the idea.....

One question - I failed to note in my original posting - when trying to start the brick first thing in the morning - it cranks - does not fire - but there is a strong gasoline smell - as if it were flooding out....

I know little about the AMM - although others have suggested I look at that as a solution also...


And a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL !!!!

Gord Hull

Red Deer AB CA

"...- when trying to start the brick first thing in the morning - it cranks - does not fire - but there is a strong gasoline smell - as if it were flooding out...."

Did you look at a plug or two to see if they're wet with gas?
If you suspect a lack of fuel, you can "prime" the system before starting by connecting a temporary jumper wire between Fuse 6 and Fuse 4 (Use the Left side fuse contacts).

I doubt it's a check valve problem. They aren't intended to hold pressure overnight — the spec is to hold at least 14.5 psi after 20 minutes. That's less than 1/2 the normal 36.2 psi system pressure.


--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Maybe I am misunderstanding the fuel process - but wouldn't a flooding problem indicate too much fuel.....??

I suppose that is what you are referring to when you say check the plugs for being wet.....

The weird thing is - the car does not fire, even when the engine is turned over and the throttle has not been touched at all. (normal starting procedure for fuel injected, computerized systems).

I could see if it flooded out after the throttle was tapped......

Once I get it running - any adjustments to the AMM that would help - or how does one know if the AMM is kaput I have unplugged it as one brickboarder suggested - no difference......


Thanks

AND A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS to ALL !!!!!!!!!1

Gord Hull

Red Deer, AB CA

Sorry if I added to the confusion. Yes, gas smell does suggest flooding, so I thought a look at the plugs might verify it.

If it's pumping any fuel, and the injectors are passing it into the cylinders, that at least confirms that the Ignition CU is working — because the ICU must give an "OK" signal to the Fuel system before the Fuel Relay will be energized to power the pumps and injectors.

It may be that the ICU is "working", but that the actual spark generation or delivery is faulty. Do you know the age of the cap. rotor, wires, and plugs?

I wouldn't suspect the coil itself, but it is a possibility I guess. So is anything that impedes or reduces the current flow thru the coil Primary windings. Something as simple as Bad Coil Connections (poor conductivity due to corrosion, etc.) can definitely cause a no-start. I think this could be temperature-related too (worse cold --better warm).

My daughter on Martha's Vineyard learned this when her '87 no-start was fixed by the local tech working both primary connectors off and on a few times, then charging the prevailing $84/hr minimum rate.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.