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240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts 200 1989

My daughters' 1989 240 has a dashboard with a mind of its'own. It started out with the fuel & temp guages becoming intermittent, then the warning lights were intermittent.She says whacking the top of the dash helped for a while...Now the alternator has gone out so I'm tackling multiple problems. The rebuilt alternator is not charging the battery. I took the instrument panel out & did the procedure for tightening the contacts on the temp compensator board & reseated it. I replaced all fuses & cleaned every contact I could find. Although perhaps not related, the speedometer has quit also.The clock, dash & exterior lights are working. The row of warning lights does not come on when the key is turned on. Another interesting item is the "bulb out" light not working; to test I put a known bad bulb in one of the taillights.
Am I chasing a bad wiring harness or just a bad ground connection I haven't found yet ? And to add insult to injury, IT STARTS AND RUNS JUST FINE...








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    240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts 200 1989

    I just bought an '83 240GL for my daughter to use for college and work. I had the same problem with all the lights coming at once. Some times they would stay on for a while, other just blink on then off. At fisrt it looked like it was happening at idle but it was inconsistent. Got my first good clue when I had to jump the car to start it. It has a fairly new battery in it. It turned out to be the positive cables and wires to the battery. All where corroded up to an inch inside the shielding. I stripped 'em back, cleaned corrosion completely and installed a new terminal lug on the cable. Also cleaned both battery ternimals. Problem with lights solved hope this helps If the new alt is not charging check and see if its not charging at the terminal and in the wiring.








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    240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts (Fuel & Temp Gauges) 200 1989

    "It started out with the fuel & temp guages becoming intermittent..."

    I'll take a shot at this one. Those 2 gauges depend on a 10 volt supply from a small solid-state Voltage Regulator on the rear, right side of the instrument cluster. It is fastened by 1 screw to a metal plate, which is held to the cluster by a screw at top and bottom.

    The VR may be have gone bad, or have poor contact at one of its 3 pins. I recently bought a '93 where the PO (or a "helper") had for some reason unscrewed the VR from the plate, turned it over, and put it back on with connector pins reversed, killing both gauges. An old spare VR got them working again.


    --
    Bruce Young
    '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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    240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts 200 1989

    I agree with B.C. If the alternator light is not working (not turning on with key to ON), the alternator will not output any voltage because there will be no initial field (rotor) current.
    --
    85 245 DL - 91 Mazda MX6 Turbo








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    240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts 200 1989

    89 240s do not suffer from harness degredation, unless some previous incompetent owner molested everything. Then too, as I fiddled with the instrument cluster in the wife's 244 last weekend (balky temp gauge, loose wire) I got quite an array of warning lights to display. Once I firmly attached everything it settled down to normal, but it does indicate to me your problem is in the near cluster wiring.








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      240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts 200 1989

      A slight addendum (not a correction!) -
      The 89's don't get harness rot in the sense of the 87 and earlier cars, where the insulation actually crumbles and leaves bare copper.
      They do get, as BC notes, really hard sleeving, making the harnesses inflexible. The stuff turns into something like glass- hard, inflexible, and cracks when you pull hard enough to break it. When people work around the alternator, they flex the harnesses. Wires can chafe or get cut.
      Same results, up to and including a fire risk at the large red wire to the alternator. Sounds like we're all chasing the same type of problem and solution on this particular car.

      Just fixed this problem in an 88 245, and it helped to remove all the harness sheath under the pulley. I re-wrapped it with 3M scotch 33 electrical tape- good stuff and stays flexible hot or cold.

      --
      Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!








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    240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts 200 1989

    Let me see, out of that litany of difficulties, I see two that relate. But I'm not sure that you mean what I think.

    (1) The warning lights DO NOT go on with key in Position II, before starting.

    (2) The alternator is not charging the battery.

    As regards (1), does the oil pressure light behave differently thatn the other lights? On at the right time, off when engine starts?

    Have a look at the back of the alternator. Find three wires connected. One is a large gauge red one, connected to a stud with an nut and - sometimes - a cover over the nut.

    Another is a slightly smaller gauge, blue or black, connected between a bolt holding the alternator mounting bracket onto the block and the frame of the alternator.

    The third is a smaller gauge red wire.

    The two red ones, large and small, plus the black wire from the oil pressure sensor, are in a harness that goes from just behind the alternator, under the front pulley, up to somewhere near the distributor.

    That small red wire is critical to the alternator being able to charge. If is is compromised, no charge (a bad thing here, not at the dept. store!).

    The wire provides the ground side for the idiot warning lights on the dash. So if it's grounded anywhere, the lights come on. Normally it finds ground via the rotor windings in the alternator. A very small voltage gets there, and provides the initial excitation for the charging process. Once charging begins, the ground is lost and the lights go out.

    So if that wire is grounded some other place, like under the front pulley, you get lights and no charge. If that wire is open somewhere, you get no lights and no charge.

    The under-pulley harness outer cover gets brittle and subject to being chafed by the matal tabs that hold it in place. A tab can chafe all the way into the harness, and on through a wire insulation. That can ground the red wire.

    There is a fix, fairly easy. I think you can find it in the archives.

    Good Luck,

    Bob

    :>)


    --
    240s: 1986 244GL, 1988 244GL, and 5 others.








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      240 Warning Lights Driving Me Nuts 200 1989

      so if you get the lights coming on, could it also indicate that the alternator is bad internally? I am also having this problem as well as others.







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