Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Alloy flywheel 120-130

posted by  someone claiming to be 122 owner on  Sat Jan 22 13:58 CST 2005 [RELATED]

Does the alloy flywheel make a hugh diffrence in an already built engine.








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    Alloy flywheel 120-130

    posted by  Phil S. on  Sun Jan 23 04:35 CST 2005
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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    It doesn't make a huge difference on any engine -- just lets it rev up a bit quicker in the low gears.








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      Alloy flywheel 120-130

      uid 4846's pic
      posted by  JohnMc on  Mon Jan 24 02:55 CST 2005
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      last visit: Thu Oct 23 07:42 CST 2014
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      And make it a bit twitchy and hard to drive smoothly in stop and go situations.
      --
      I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.








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        Alloy flywheel 120-130

        posted by  someone claiming to be Stefan on  Mon Jan 24 04:09 CST 2005 [RELATED]

        It isn't worth the hassle, trouble and cost for anything other than a real racecar, especially a sprint car can benefit a bit from a lighter flywheel.

        They also tend to wear very quickly.

        Some of those flashy flywheels are pure junk and downright dangerous, no holes for the dowels, so we'll just run without .... and have the flywheel cut our legs off when the bolts snap. Or a mating flange that is much too thin ...

        Best regards


        Stefan








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          Alloy flywheel 120-130

          posted by  Phil S. on  Mon Jan 24 05:55 CST 2005
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          last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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          There are also excellent quality aluminum flywheels with steel inserts as the friction surface, dowels, and precise construction. Go through a reputable supplier, and you'll get what you pay for.

          That being said, they're expensive and add significantly to the cost of a rebuild. There are many things to spend that money on that make more difference.








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          Alloy flywheel 120-130

          uid 4846's pic
          posted by  JohnMc on  Mon Jan 24 05:31 CST 2005
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          last visit: Thu Oct 23 07:42 CST 2014
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          For $25 I had about 3 or 4 lbs taken off the outside rim of my stock flywheel. I'm not exactly sure I felt the difference, but I *think* I did. There are a lot of other things I would spend money on before an aluminum flywheel.
          --
          I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.








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            Alloy flywheel 120-130

            posted by  someone claiming to be Rhys on  Mon Jan 24 14:59 CST 2005 [RELATED]

            Aluminum is way to expensive. The 3 or 4 pounds off an iron wheel is all you need to do - and I have done many and always felt the difference. Takes me about 30 minutes to set up and machine, and usually the balance is still good. And I don't worry about my feet or those of my customers.....








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              machining an arn wheel 120-130

              posted by  Danny on  Mon Jan 24 16:09 CST 2005
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              last visit: Mon Oct 6 22:01 CST 2014
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              Rhys
              Assuming a person had the machining to do this, can you give us a more specific description of where from and how much you remove. I'm assuming (what do I know?) it's a uniform cut in depth, so the question is how deep, and from where to where in relation to the center. thanks much.







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                machining an arn wheel 120-130

                posted by  someone claiming to be Rhys on  Tue Jan 25 19:30 CST 2005 [RELATED]

                As John has said, the material is removed at the rim, behind the ring gear. I machine to within about .050 of the gear, and then reduce the diameter until the cut nearly breaks into the clutch cover bolt holes. I also leave a large radius in the transition between the two surfaces. I have measured stock wheels up to about 22 pounds. Some seem thicker than others. Normally this amount of machining removes about 4 pounds.
                The lathe needs to be large and rigid, with the ability to get down to about 50-60 RPM. A HSS toolbit is all that is needed, and as with all cast iron, heavy feed and slow speed are the way to go, and dry. It is best to dial it up in a four jaw independant chuck - to within a thou or two laterally and axially.







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                machining an arn wheel 120-130

                uid 4846's pic
                posted by  JohnMc on  Tue Jan 25 01:10 CST 2005
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                last visit: Thu Oct 23 07:42 CST 2014
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                In my case - just took off the obvious. The back edge of the flywheel - from the outer edge forward to the ring gear, and inward until close to the pressure plate bolt holes. Didn't take anything else off - left the clutch surface full thickness. This metal was both 100% non structural and at the rim - where it makes the most difference.
                --
                I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.








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                  My lightened 8 bolt flywheel(big picture) 120-130

                  uid 14369's pic
                  posted by  KLR142 on  Tue Jan 25 07:17 CST 2005
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                  last visit: Mon May 9 12:44 CST 2011
                  [RELATED]

                  It is more than 6lbs lighter than the 6bolt flywheel that we put in my car with it's latest engine. I am even willing to lighten this one even more before I put it back in the car. Taking material out of the non stressed/structural areas and mainly out of the outer rim to have less mass on the outside of the flywheel to accelerate. The picture doesn't show much, but you can see how there is a "ridge" (you could say, or maybe that's stock, but the flywheel overall is only about 16-18lbs), taken out above the ring gear all around the flywheel.

                  My 8bolt flywheel:

                  --
                  Kyle - www.OVTuners.org website and club Official Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - current setup: 71b20b SUs, m40, part. stripped, custom CAI, 4-2-1 FI man., Simons exhaust... IPD sways +more








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                    ALuminum and lightened flywheels 120-130

                    posted by  jparker3 on  Thu Jan 27 01:46 CST 2005
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                    last visit: Tue Jun 9 18:47 CST 2009
                    [RELATED]

                    some points in light of inaccurate info in this thread so far.

                    1) good quality AL flywheels are just as durable as stock flywheels
                    2) AL flywheels are much less dangerous then iron flywheels - they weigh less
                    and are much less likely to come apart.
                    3) milling a stock flywheel of more than a few lbs. reduces its strength which is why we strongly recommend against taking more than a few lbs. off a stock flywheel -if you valve safety and your feet, spend the extra money on
                    4) the difference in performance in having to accellerate a 9 lb. FW from 1000 - 6000 rpm, several times as you go through the gears, is significant.
                    5) It would not be the first thing I would change when making performance modifications, but it is an important part of any performance improvement package,
                    recognized as such by all organizations providing performance upgrades, including Volvo.
                    6) Cutting FW weight in half is a guaranteed improvement in performance that can be calculated. It also is one of the few performance improvements that will have a significant affect without making other changes.
                    7) there is no other modification that can be done for $400, which by itself will have as significant an affect on performance.

                    John
                    v-performance







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