I have a problem. When I try to turn the key on my 89 240 dl wagon sometimes the battery will be dead. This will happen when I least want it to and makes my car very undependable. It happens at least once every ten or fifteen times I drive it. I have checked all the key components including the belts, bushings, voltage reg., alternator, battery, etc. Someone told me it might be a bad relay (fuel injection relay?). Someone also said the starter's solenoid might be pulling power from the battery. I have had this problem for a long time and would like to beat it. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Also when I try to start the car it always chugs and I have to hold the gas for a few seconds to get it to stay running and then it is fine. Is this just the cold start injector? It happens in the summertime too. I have cleaned out the throttle body and the AMM is good.

Thanks for any help. Steven

Last one first:
"Also when I try to start the car it always chugs and I have to hold the gas for a few seconds to get it to stay running and then it is fine."
Is this only in the morning? If so it could be a simple check valve down by the fuel pump and your gas is draining back into the tank. Turn the key to on in the morning, wait for 5 seconds, then start it. If that works, get a new check valve.

Now, your first problem:

Is the battery dead, dead, like in just getting a click when you try to start it? Or is there nothing, no dash warning lights, totally dead? (could it be your switch is going bad?) Does your glove box close all the way, ditto the trunk light? How old is your battery? Have you trickle charged it lately or do you just jump start the car? Recheck all of the ground wires for positive contact.

Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(101Kmi), 95 854T(85K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)

First of all thanks for the tips Klaus. I will try the check valve check next time I jump the car.

In reference to the second reply...The dashboard lights are on, it makes the natural clicking. I also have had a small problem where the lights wouldn't come on because the key was turned to the right too much and I had to barely turn it to the left so it would be in the right position and then the lights would work. Could this be the switch? The battery is approximately 6 months old. I've had it checked out a few times. I do not have a glove box cover to close, I just have the empty glove box itself. I am not familiar with the trunk light. I do not know what a trickle charge is I usually leave the cables on for a few minutes and then just go from there. Also I will try to look out for any positive/negative contact in the wire system etc.

Thanks for any response help. Steven

If you hit the starter and it clicks, it means there is not enough battery voltage to engage the starter. You have less than 10V in the battery, letting the lights work. You need to check the voltage from the alternator to make sure it is putting out around 14V when your car is idling.

The switch plate behind the key lock at the steering wheel may be getting worn and in need of replacement. Easy DIY job. Just remove the plastic cover behind the steering wheel and R&R the switch plate. About $30 at your "friendly" dealer.

If you park outside in the sun, volkswagen makes a solar panel trickle charger which can be bought at the dealer or on ebay+shipping for about the same price. Otherwise, go to Sears automotive for a plug in type.

When you get your check valve replaced, it is a good time to replace the gas filter at the same time.

Good luck,
Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(101Kmi), 95 854T(85K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)

You say:

The dashboard lights are on, it makes the natural clicking..

I ask, by natural clickiing do you mean the relays under the center air vent are clicking, or there is a clicking from under the hood when turning the key to "Start"?

Regarding the warning lights - When the Key reaches Position II, sometimes called "Run", all the warning lights should come on, I thinks it's five or six. That is to check that all the bulbs are working.

If you have to "jiggle" the key about some to get those lights on, there may be a problem in the ignition switch that affects the starting. Especially if the "clicking" you hear is not from under the hood.

Glove box - what about the glove box light? It's not on all the time, is it? BTW there are some glove boxes on ebaY, have a look but be sure that the one for auction will fit your year and model. They may look the same but they don't all fit. Has to do with the way the lock latch piece fits up into the top of the box. If you get the whole box and door and lock, it will fit and work, but you may not be able to get a key to lock it.

Trunk light - Mounted on the underside of the left side of the lid. You have either a light or a hole for a light.

Trickle charge - Leaving the battery charger connected to the battery at a very low sharging rate overnight. Just a trickle. Best way to do tha job.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

I can't say for sure but it definitely sounds like from under the center air vent. As for under the hood I'm not too sure.

The ignition switch looks like the likely culprit, but to tell if it's the relay or the solenoid, can you have someone else turn the key for you while you listen from the front of the car with the hood up? It should then be obvious if it's the solenoid clicking or not. But then, that's just a symptom of a discharged battery, and doesn't really explain why the battery is not holding a charge. If you have a voltmeter, you might want to check the voltage across the battery terminals -- should go up to around 14V when the engine is running (once you get it going), if not suspect the alternator. (Oh, I see you did check the alternator, but what did you do to eliminate it?)

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'81 GLT 245 W/245K; '83 DL 175K