Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Shocking 120-130

I have two types of front shocks, both waiting to be chosen and installed. Which one should I pick? The first is a set of (used) adjustable Koni's. The 2nd is a set of (new) Girling gas shocks.

The Koni's seem to be easier to push IN, then to pull OUT.
The Girlings seem to be harder to push IN, then to pull OUT.

I can see some of the advantages and disadvantages of both type shocks but which ones should I pick? I suppose bumps would come through more clear with the girlings, but in case of a hole in the road, the girling would maintain contact with the road better. The Koni's will make a bit more comfort ride I guess? How DO them shock operate?

Thanks, cheers, Ben
--
P131, '65, B20B+M47. P131, '69, B20E+AW71L+LSD. (www.tinustechniek.tk)








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Shocking 120-130

I have had a similar experience with my MGB. The stock shocks liked to compress but not rebound and the tube-shocks for the conversion were hard on compression but soft on rebound.

The stock method seemed to be soft at low speeds but allowed the suspension to "load-up" at speed so it got "firmer" the faster you went.

The conversion gave much better low-speed suspension "feel" but the high speed use was slightly more "wallowy" but not scary by any means. Tough on speed-bumps, however.

--
Mike!








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Shocking 120-130

How did they compare when it commes to cornering?

Lets say you do a quick sharp left, right, left, right turn. I would think that the girling (hard on compression) would help prevent the car form leaning, since it would have to overcome the shock resistance. But, with these hard-in-easy-out shocks, maybe the other side of the car will just 'rise' a bit, since they're easy to extend, so the net leaning of the car will be the same?

The konis are adjustable on the rebound, like Phil mentioned: (there are two small pins in the top of the outer cap (i havo no better description) which, -when fully compressed-, can hook into a 'thingy' at the top of the cilinder/shock. By turning this 'thingy' youre able to adjust the rebound on them. (you'll have to take them of the car to be able to do this though)

So, I guess the hard-in-easy-out shock will be more harsh when driving on uneven pavements and bad country roads. But I presume, bumps will allways come through harder, not only at low speeds I mean. The other shocks, easy-in-hard-out, will be more comfy on those bad kind of roads, but might be less preferable with track-like driving. Would that be about correct?

So should I be better of using the konis (easy-in-(adjustably)hard-out) for a daily driver?

Thanks again all, Ben



--
P131, '65, B20B+M47. P131, '69, B20E+AW71L+LSD. (www.tinustechniek.tk)








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Shocking 120-130

Ben, I'm not sure how it's done, but most Konis are adjustable for rebound -- how eager the shock is to extend after having been compressed. You might want to play with that once we figure out how the adjustment is done. I have a book someplace...








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Shocking 120-130

Try this link!!

http://www.koni.com/_cars/frame.html

Mike








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Shocking 120-130


--
P131, '65, B20B+M47. P131, '69, B20E+AW71L+LSD. (www.tinustechniek.tk)








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IShocking 120-130

Hello knutselsmurf,

You do'nt give an easy question when you can, do you?.
As an answer, IŽll tried the girling dampers,and they work.
As for the KoniŽs youŽll have too get a answer from Koni.







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