Help!!!!

I think I have come down with that dreaded disease, Volvo Acquisition Syndrome VAS!!

If having a 64 wagon was not enough, I was turned onto a 66 coupe this weekend. A short description:

Faded, original, mint green paint. Couple of minor dings but no, zero, zilch nada rust.

93000 miles total, first 71000 were rolled up between 66 and 72, all factory serviced and signed off in the original book. Then over the next 30 years the rest of the mileage was accumulated (a little more than a thousand miles a year. Apparently the car was garage kept most of the time. In fact, all the original owners documentation is intact!!

The car has been kept outside the last couple of years by several less than careful owners. It appears that most of the the deterioration has taken place in that time period. Very little fading has taken place on the upholstery and the drivers seat has two torn panels on the back rest, Easy fixes.

All the bright work is positively shiny, present, and accounted for!

Factory green carpeting is in perfect condition! the the dash pad is uncracked and unfaded.

Rebuilt brakes with new disks up front, the original disks are in the trunk and are nowhere near the wear limits! The B18 has new bearings and rings and a broken fuel pump bolt. The last is the reason the current owner wants to sell it. That, and the fact that he has no idea what a car he has!!!!!

I suppose the car is worth slightly more than the asking price of $700! The first step to findind salvation is said to be knowing one has a problem. Is it really such a problem to have 2 Amazons?Anyone willing to help restrain me or should I just give in to my base urges. Are these really base urges? (Actually a good excuse or two would enable me to rationalize the hell out of it and just buy the damn thing!!!)

Help me out folks? Please!

ROFLMAO!

I amuse me.

--
Mike!

You're on your second Volvo and you think you have VAS? That's like reaching for your second beer and claiming you're drunk. VAS doesn't start until the third or fourth one. Enjoy your time of innocence.

Look under the tree for the 544 and the 445. that's seven. If they'd just let me park behind the curb, I could get eight or nine in the shot.
--
Volvo Farmer:

21 Volvos '58-'91

445-544-122-144-1800-240-740

sorry, no FWD

You got the carz, I got the driveway!



This shows the far end but there is about 100 feet between here and the
street and at the street it is wide enough to park 3 abreast, even where
the 3 oak trees are in the middle of the driveway.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Dang!!

I may have to get the 34 acres!!

Mike

Bob

Looks like I better get on the stick! Wait till I get my acrreage, buddy! then yur in fer some serious competition.

Yur my muse man!

Mike

Wait, didja buy it? or not yet? Cause if you didn't buy it yet, I'mma have to come to wherever it is(where is it?) and take it. Much better deal than what I'm working on.. Well, maybe only bodywise.. Who know's what's lurking in that clean engine that I saw... And not to mention, the OD that's in it, I just saw a D type go for $400! on ebay!
--
Kyle E.
VP of Membership and Website Administrator
Oregon Volvo Tuners
Portland/Corvallis, OR - 1968 142 - 71b20b SUs, m40, ask me for more info...

Kyle

Boy, I had that one coming, HA!!

I bought it, couldn't help myself. I need a nice car to sport about with the lady friend. My wagon is a work in... progress and drafty and crude... certainly not something that instills confidence in a nicely made up female companion. Can you say "eeeewwww that's disgusting!" Now the coupe is another story. The interior is light years away in terms of civility.

Even picked up all the pulleys and compressor brackets for AC. Vintage Air makes a combined heater/AC unit that will take the place of the interior and underhood heater installations. They can even fabricate a digital control panel that fits in the original dashboard location.

Installing the O/D seems a slam dunk. Popped the top and it looks outstanding inside.

Sorry to hear about your carb troubles in Washington. Float bowl needles are easy to clean out replace and a cheap little "Filtoreg" fuel pressure regulator (check shops that deal in air cooled VWs) is not hard to install to reduce the fuel pressure off the pump if needed. Down draft Dell'ortos won't work without one. A can of carb cleaner like Berrymans is a great tool for futzing wth carbs that may have a little dirt and grime or varnish inside passages, etc.

As a quick and dirty method squeeze the hose down with a small pair of vise grips to restrict fuel flow. It goes without saying the electronic pump has been removed? I think you will like the 145. Wagons have special cool factor in my mind. Especially if your camp and fish at all. a little 12 foot drift boat fits on top like a glove. You have great rivers up there.

Thanks Kyle, I'll be waiting for your next great adventure!

Mike

Four speed? GO FOR IT!

I think the coupe will get the o/d and B20B.

The O/D turned out to be a small flange "d" type (installed in a 75 145 no less "duh!!!".) Would not have guessed that combo to be produced! All the right parts otherwise seemed to be in the right places, Odd, but no complaint to me.... for 150 bux including the B20F motor.

The fresh B18 will come out to go the machinist, then will go in the wagon as I Megasquirt the F for the coupe... Figure that should be the (semi) hot rod, right! The B20B will eventually end up In the wagon. Musical Motors?

"Yes sir, folks, come on down to Musical Motors... no down payments... no financing... no problem at all, ask for Cal!, but watch out for Spot!"

It's been a great two weeks of parts finding.

Ever run across any fender mounted rear view mirrors?

Ever use a cable clutch assembly instead of hydraulic? Thoughts? My Jettas and Golfs have used up cable about every 3 years. The bastages crushed the poor 145 before I could gut it more.

I did get the AC compressor brackets and pulleys though, just in case I get soft in my old age

Shayne. Since you have a 64 too, what is the length of your front prop shaft from the flange to the carrier bearing?

Thanks for the reply

>I think the coupe will get the o/d and B20B.

So ya bought the coupe? Cool.

>The O/D turned out to be a small flange "d" type (installed in a 75 145 no less "duh!!!".) Would not have guessed that combo to be produced! All the right parts otherwise seemed to be in the right places, Odd, but no complaint to me.... for 150 bux including the B20F motor.

That's okay, the D-type I put in Momma's 145 hauls it around just fine.

>The fresh B18 will come out to go the machinist, then will go in the wagon as I Megasquirt the F for the coupe... Figure that should be the (semi) hot rod, right! The B20B will eventually end up In the wagon. Musical Motors?

"Yes sir, folks, come on down to Musical Motors... no down payments... no financing... no problem at all, ask for Cal!, but watch out for Spot!"

Heh.


>Ever run across any fender mounted rear view mirrors?

Those kind that could only be in the way when you work on your car? No.
I don't think I'd want my mirrors there. I've not thought much about it, maybe I'm just jealous of fender mounted mirror cars.

>Ever use a cable clutch assembly instead of hydraulic? Thoughts? My Jettas and Golfs have used up cable about every 3 years. The bastages crushed the poor 145 before I could gut it more.

The '69 and later Amazons have a slightly (very?) different cowling there where the MC's go. The pedal is WAY different. 3 years? Not too shabby. Hydraulic clutch parts last about 5. Maybe more if we flush 'em regularly.

>I did get the AC compressor brackets and pulleys though, just in case I get soft in my old age

Heh.

>Shayne. Since you have a 64 too, what is the length of your front prop shaft from the flange to the carrier bearing?

I'd be more comfortable giving you a measurement from a certain-point to a certain-point. Give me a call and perhaps I can fax a crude drawing to you.
S.

My hydraulic clutch parts have been lasting about 15 years using DOT5.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Thanks George

That's good enough for me!!! DOT5 , that stuff is the silicone base stuff which is not hygroscopic, right. Best to disassemble and flush thoroughly, reassemble with new seals, then fill and bleed the system?

Mike

You got it!
I keep hearing all these weird stories about IF water gets in there it
will settle to the bottom and rust things anaerobically, but since the
DOT5 is more or less hydrophobic and there is little or no air circulation
in the system, to me the likelihood of getting water in it is vanishingly
small. It certainly didn't get in there in Panama, which is about the
humidity capital of the world. That is why the Army adopted it. (I was
in on the testing - reduced brake maintenance probably over 97%)

You DO need to be careful handling it that it doesn't get shaken or violently
stirred. Likewise pour it slowly and deliberately so you don't get bubbles
in it. Very small bubbles are hard to get out and make for a spongy brake
pedal.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

"rust things anaerobically"

Yes that one is a hard sell, anerobic corrosion! My limited knowlege of chemisty tells me believe that without some oxygen in the mix (free or dissolved) corrosion is going to be severely limited if not, inhibited completely.

Bubble issues go back to the high surface tension characteristics of the stuff, right? I have a vacuum pot for degassing silicone mold material that will handle the bubbles if need be. Most folks aren't so lucky though.

They used to have a tropical equipment testing center down there, right.

Mike

Against aluminum, you can get the oxygen from the water, especially if
chlorides are present in ANY quantity, which they almost always are.
Look in the bottom of your zinc-alloy or aluminum alloy float bowl and
you'll generally find corrosion, for example.

I think if you don't shake it or pour too vigorously you'll be OK.

US Army Tropic Test Center. I spent 22 years with them. It was great up
till the 99% drawdown in 1989. I retired in 1998 and came back to Oklahoma.
There is still a small contract group there doing a little bit of exposure
testing.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Hey Shane

I'm just fine with a D type. Especially for the money!! I'll have to modify the cover for the long stick though.... I don't really want to cut the floor.

Oh yeah... That funny mirror could rearrange me belly button...Oops!! forgot about that one minor issue. Now, some great big ole pickup truck mirrors, now that is style, huh?

Silly me, I forgot I have both kinds of trannies to measure now!!

My clutch cylinders are in fine shape.. as the old saying goes... "don't break it until it needs to be fixed ...or something like that"!

Ask your momma if she want's to race?

Later

Mike

Coupla picayune notes... there's no such thing as a '75 145. '74 was the last year. I did pull a J-type tranny from a '75 240, and it has the same small flange as the '67 D-type that came in my 1800, so that may not be so odd (except that it's a D-type).

M41s come in several lengths, so Shayne's shortened drive shaft may not be right for your car. Measure from the bellhousing to the flange on the M40 and M41, and then you'll know how much to shorten.

Here's some swapping we did a while back (and it's ongoing)...

I had the "How Not To" big-bore B18 in our Amazon, and the original B18B in the 1800. Cameron bought a '71 142E for parts, and a bunch of us spent a day dismantling it in his driveway. I got the B20E motor from that in exchange for helping, and in payment for my labor overhauling the M41 from the junker. Our friend Teague got all the D-jet stuff for a hot-rod motor he was building.

The B18B one day made bad noises and had metal shavings in the oil. Out it came, and in went the B20E with SU carbs.

Some time later, the Amazon came apart for restoration, with Shayne doing all the dismantling. I already had the MPPE planned, so I gave Shayne the How Not To motor in payment for his work. That ended up in his mom's 140.

After endless tinkering, Teague got tired of trying to tune the D-jet on his new motor. I had a vision of using the B20E with D-jet back on it in our Amazon when it came out of resto. I traded him the good SU system from the How Not To motor for it.

The MPPE finally came together and went into the 1800 with Weber DCOEs, and the B20E sat for a while. The '75 M41 J that had been in the Amazon went into the 1800.

What happened to the SU stuff that had been on the B18B, I have no idea anymore. I gave it away to someone, probably. Cameron got the manifold and dual downpipes.

The Webers on the MPPE turned out to have problems, so I replaced them with new 48 DCO/SPs.

By the time the Amazon was pretty much restored, I was too burnt out to want to play with a D-jet conversion to the car (or unconversion to the motor), and I came upon a good deal on a whole DCOE setup, so that's what went on there. This car got the M41 D that was originally in the 1800.

At this time I have a set of damaged DCOEs that might be just fine as throttle bodies, and I have a complete D-jet system in a crate. The B20E is just crying out for Megasquirt or SDS injection, methinks...

And yes, I did come across some fender mirrors recently. Unfortunately, you have to buy the car they're on to get them

Phil

Corrected, yes it was a 74, as it had a K jet and that I believe that was one year only.

Really, different lengths O/Ds even within the same type, very tricky stuff here!!!! Good advice on the prop shaft. Now just to confirm; the D type has the solenoid on the right hand side and the data plate is on the left side. The J type has the solenoid on the left side and the dataplate is on the right side.

Musical Motors... I got some work to do to keep up with you guys....Whew!!! Your song sounds like it has about six or seven part harmony and triple banjos!!!!

And back to fuel injection... Very interesting thought on the DCOE conversion to a throttle body. You get the mechanically interesting look of the Webers with the technolgy of a EFI. Cuts the purchase of non-returnable items in quadruplicate to a bare minimum. A Weber owner with a Cheshire cat grin! I have package of Megasquirt parts sitting in the box on the "projects to be" shelf.

OBTW, got a chance to compare D-Jet and K-Jet manifolds. Not enough difference to worry about all the physical dimensions look the same some differences in drillings but not many are needed anyway. A D-Jet in a crate. Such a deal!!!

Nice mirrors! (attached to a pretty nice looking little 122). Are those types of mirror a european style and that is why they are not often seen in the US? Little sedan sits pretty nice there!

Thanks Again!

Mike

Mike, correct about the solenoid sides. Also, D has one wire to the solenoid, while J has two (one of which just jumpers to ground).

I seem to have had a spell of ISAS (intake system acquisition syndrome).

The obstacle (er, one obstacle I know of so far) using DCOEs as throttle bodies is how to hook up a throttle position switch. Could be operated by the linkage rather than sit right on a throttle shaft, I'm thinking...

The appeal is that I could use the long, port-matched manifolds already on the car and most of the existing linkage, rather than rework everything for the D-jet manifold. Then I could sell off the good DCOEs and recoup a substantial part of the price of the rest of the project.

Then Marsha could finally drive her car without my having to do all the cold starting and warming up for her.

Then I should build a better motor for it than an old B20E out of a junker.

And then I should put throttle bodies on the MPPE and sell off the DCO/SPs.

And then... and then...

X^]

Hey Phil!!

Sounds like the O/D stuff is well in hand. Good!

"The obstacle (er, one obstacle I know of so far) using DCOEs as throttle bodies is how to hook up a throttle position switch. Could be operated by the linkage rather than sit right on a throttle shaft, I'm thinking..."

Interesting concept that would recycle otherwise nearly unusable parts. Are you thinking of locating the injectors in the manifolds upstream of the original locaton in the head.

Hmmm! As I recall, most TPSs fit a "D" shaft vs. the "flat" shaft on the Webers. Is that the hitch? Tricky little connection that must have imperceptible slop. Sizes? Could machine a special adapter shaft that would only be about 1/2 inch long. I have some ideas .. I'll draft it up.

Utilizing those finely massaged manifolds would seem to build on earlier accomplishments with MPPE, eh? Obviously the air flow is pretty darn good already, the EFI may just bring the fuel control to the level which will help realize the greatest potential... Day in - day out, season to season, close looped fuel control. The "Squirt" seems to have the edge for me based on the datalogging factor over the SDS. Been reading Per Schroeders web postings at GRM, Neat Stuff!

I'm not sure I wanna imagine you in yur jammies warming up the car!!! Nice thing to do though!

An updated D-Jet seems to be a great way to build a nice smooth and gutsy powerplant for Marsha's little baby huh?

Damn, your list is longer than mine.

Musical Motors in the key of L flat minor.

Thanks again.

Mike

All you got to do for the cure is move the the midwest.
There are mostly just rust stains in the dirt where the cars used to be.
I talked to one proud owner with a 122 wagon on the way home, fiberglass fenders, smashed windshield, head off, cylinders orange, but hey it's got laguna mags. "$2000. It's a classic."
You should have such problems.


--
MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'

Thanks, that looks to be the case out in the rust belt. I can handle just about anything but rust. 20 inches of rain a year and no snow or salt is a blessing out here. I've seen several more pretty decent rust free cars in various states of cosmetic repair... wish I had a place to store them.

I grew up in Iowa... hard to imagine I survived!

If your cars are similar, it doesn't take such a massive culch heap to
support them. Same parts will work on both.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

George

That's close enough to being a good enough excuse for me!!! I think the coupe will get the B20 and overdrive, though!

Thanks

Mike

Gee, I hate it when these UFO abductions happen right in the middle of a post.

Phil,

Say what?

gary

He'd accidentally posted the message with just the first few characters typed out...

Editedthe original post

I'mmm BAAAACK!