I've been told by a few local sources that the new fuel pump being specified for the 1971 1800E is the same as for a few 240 models. I've put one in bosch(0 580 254 949)and bypassed the extra hose from the return line that went back into the old pump(just sent it back into the tank).

Has anyone done this? I'm just getting a whole lot of flooding. Set the pressure regulator down too to no avail. It seems the flow is too high.

Do I need a new regulator? Or should I just get my old pump rebuilt? Any suggestions?

Thanks

I changed most of the fuel lines(not many and inexpensive) and the fuel pressure regulator(also fairly inexpensive) and life is grand. I'd suggest that this is all-in-all a fairly simple procedure and in the end makes the next fuel pump replacement cheaper and straightforward. Thanks for all the feedback.

Josh

I have always heard a stocker D-jet pump is good for 60-80 psi, as well as $2-400. You can read about my alternative here. As I understand it, the 3rd outlet on a 3 port pump was a form of redundancy, duplicating the functionality of the pressure regulator, and a 2 port pump is fine. Before the above noted conversion, I had always replaced 3 port pumps with their 2 port equivalents. No ill effects, but less plumbing an less hassle.

The pressure regulator is a very simple mechanical device. You can test it with a bicycle tire pump and come creativity.
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Justin 66 122E
Read vclassics tech!

I don't have a parts list on hand to check that number, but are you sure that is the pump for your D-jet system. The D-jet pump is rated at 28 psi, the one for the later CI, F system is rated at 71 psi, which might explain the problem.
Bob S.

I had thought that the Djet pump pushed about 60 or so PSI, and it then gets regulated to 28-30...

If I'm wrong about that, it could surely explain the problem... too much pressure for the Djet regulator to deal with...

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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

You're right.

You'd think they have similar peak flow rates - the K Jet motors used about as muchg fuiel at WOT as a D-Jet car did.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

Hook a pressure gauge up on the cold start valve hose. See what it says. The original pump was constantly pumping a large volume of gas, the regulator just diverted most of it back down the return line and back to the tank. On the other side of the regulator you should always see a steady 28 - 32 psi (I've seen various numbers for that, perhaps it varies per car, and it is a way to fine tune the mixture over the entire rpm range). If you are having pressure spikes, it is vaguely possible that the regulator can't handle the flow, but I doubt that. I'd suspect a sticky regulator, or perhaps a plugged return line. Even the tiniest amount of grit can make a regulator not work properly.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.