Ok friends, I am a Volvo beginner (Dec. 2004) and I have a stripped oil pan. A previous thread covered my first-aid repair on this problem, but now I want to replace the pan (and oil pump o-rings and volvo motor mounts and add an ipd pump reinforcing ring and, a Fumoto Oil valve.) I have already read the FAQ and every thread on this subject at least three times over. I am feeling pretty comfortable with the idea of doing this project even though it is my toughest auto project to date.

I have also spoken to "my volvo guy" (the guy with 30 yrs experience that I pay to do stuff that is out of my league) and he gave me some tips that seem to contradict what I have read on the boards so I want to see what you guys think. He says that I don't have to drop the crossmember or hoist the engine.

He said I put the car on stands and disconnect the motor mounts. Use a floor jack to raise the front of the engine, using a 2x4 with it's end pressing against where the front of the oil pan bolts to the engine. Once the front is lifted about 5 inches you wedge something, he likes old brake pads or wood 2x4's, up under the motor mounts. Then he says to lower the jack and remove the pan bolts. With the pan down but not out, reach up in there and remove the two bolts holding the oil pump. Once the pump is off you can get the pan and the pump out of there. (He didn't mention anything about disconnecting the steering or tranny.)

Well what do you guys think of that? I like his way because I don't have to build a rig to hang the engine or drop the crossmember. I don't have a garage or a fancy engine hoists or a lot of tools, just the basics. I have to do this on the city street. Any tips or help are welcome, and over-simplification is appreciated. TIA.

Ryan
--
1989 244 Silver Sedan, 1983 245 Blue Waggon

Ryan,
The old guy's way will work for sure but you will find the hassle is going to be in dealing with that oil pump. Reaching in there and unscrewing it is going to be hassle enough, now consider trying to get it back up there with the pan in the way while you are trying to start the threads back into the block and keep the drive and reinforcing ring all aligned. No, not impossible but a right pain in the ass it will be.

I am a proponent of rip it apart and rip it back together again. Understand though that I have an entire auto repair shop, tens of thousands of dollars in tools, and two plus decades spent working on Volvos, most of which has been in dealerships. All that being said I prefer to put the car in the air, support the engine with a screw jack on the dampner, shoot loose the sub frame, rear control arm bushings, steering coupler, engine mounts, power steering lines, brake lines and junction block from the subframe and let the whole darn sub frame swing down while still attached at the ball joints. With the engine as high as I can jack it without busting things and the subframe as low as it will go I pull the pan out. The reason you need so much room is because the bottom of the oil pump is stuck through the hole in the windage tray and won't allow you any wiggle room until you get it dropped down all the way. This is why your old timing guy is unscrewing it while it is still in the pan. I have seen guys do everything from what we are talking about and right up to taking an air chisle to the brand new pan and cutting the windage tray out so they could swing it back in without dropping the subframe!!!! Criminal in my opinion, but what do you do? At any rate that is how I do them, garner what you can from it. Take what you think might work for you and disregard the rest but do be careful whatever you do because what you are contemplating does have the potential to put you in the hurt locker bad if you mess up.

Mark

I have done this job.
1) Despite what you say, it is very easy and more secure to sling it from above. Put a stout bit of timber across the wings, jack up the engine as high as it will go, then secure with chain or very stout rope. Lower jack, remove left hand engine mount for access.

2) Drop pan, observe carefully where the pump catches inside the pan, then unbolt oil pump.

3) remove pan and retrieve pump.

4) Refit pump and pipe

5) Make a small slit in the internal baffle plate, and bend it downwards so that you can get the pan back on. When it is clear of the pump, reach in and bend the plate straight again.

Twisting the pan through 90 degrees makes it easier, hence removing engine mount.

It really works, and you don't need to remove the crossmember or steering rack.

"Despite what you say, it is very easy and more secure to sling it from above."

Hmmm, that's funny I don't recall anybody saying anything about "slinging it from above".

If it can be done without cutting up the windage tray in a brand new pan I feel the extra effort is justified.

Any way you choose to do it you are still working underneath a several hundred pound chunk of steel that is supported by something whether it be a board, a rope, a chain and a board, etc. Be careful and get it done.

Mark

I couldn't agree more - be very careful. There was a photo some while back of somebody's excellent home-made sling. It was just a very strong baulk of timber, with hooks and threaded bolts for winding the engine up tight. I just used a chain shackled to the lifting eye and passed round the timber.
I favoured lifting from above because it leaves more space underneath for access to the pan, and for jiggling it round to get it clear of the oil pump. Also there is no danger of accidentally dislodging the support.
Either way, if you get the engine high enough and don't mind a bit of bending/cutting of the baffle plate, the job can be done without any other dismantling.