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Ryan,
The old guy's way will work for sure but you will find the hassle is going to be in dealing with that oil pump. Reaching in there and unscrewing it is going to be hassle enough, now consider trying to get it back up there with the pan in the way while you are trying to start the threads back into the block and keep the drive and reinforcing ring all aligned. No, not impossible but a right pain in the ass it will be.
I am a proponent of rip it apart and rip it back together again. Understand though that I have an entire auto repair shop, tens of thousands of dollars in tools, and two plus decades spent working on Volvos, most of which has been in dealerships. All that being said I prefer to put the car in the air, support the engine with a screw jack on the dampner, shoot loose the sub frame, rear control arm bushings, steering coupler, engine mounts, power steering lines, brake lines and junction block from the subframe and let the whole darn sub frame swing down while still attached at the ball joints. With the engine as high as I can jack it without busting things and the subframe as low as it will go I pull the pan out. The reason you need so much room is because the bottom of the oil pump is stuck through the hole in the windage tray and won't allow you any wiggle room until you get it dropped down all the way. This is why your old timing guy is unscrewing it while it is still in the pan. I have seen guys do everything from what we are talking about and right up to taking an air chisle to the brand new pan and cutting the windage tray out so they could swing it back in without dropping the subframe!!!! Criminal in my opinion, but what do you do? At any rate that is how I do them, garner what you can from it. Take what you think might work for you and disregard the rest but do be careful whatever you do because what you are contemplating does have the potential to put you in the hurt locker bad if you mess up.
Mark
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