|
There's no special magic to bleeding your brakes. The procedure is the same on cars with or without boosters. As long as the engine is not running when you bleed, the booster will not come into play at all.
If your mechanic took the master cylinder apart, there is always a possibility that he put something back together wrong. That is not really likely, though, as they are really quite simple mechanisms, and it is easy to keep the parts in the right order. Any competent mechanic should be able to take a master cylinder apart to check the condition of the seals and bore, and get it back together again properly.
The only way to test the system is to bleed the brakes first. You may as well flush the system at the same time, so you effectively push all the old fluid out through the bleed screws. Once you know you have all the air out, you can pump up the pressure in the system and hold it for several minutes, then visually check for leaks along all the brake lines and at each wheel. If you pump up the brakes and they lose pressure slowly while you hold the brake pedal down, like RepairmanJack said, suspect the seals in your MC. If you have a leak in the seals at one of your wheel cylinders, but the other three are good, the MC should still hold the pressure, in a dual circuit system. In that case, you would just find brake fluid leaking around the one bad wheel cylinder.
|
