My 122 has a nice electronic tach installed. Based on this, I notice that the car idles at a rather high speed ~1500-2000 rpms and rarely ever drops down to 1,000 (which I figure is a reasonable idle speed). I know that the original generator setup won;t charge at less that 1500, but I'm upgrading to a 55 amp bosch and this won;t be an issue. I've carfeull adjust the idle screws to the minimum. The linkage is almost flat (no more slack to give it) and the idle is still high. How can I get this engine to calm down and use a little less fuel at idle?

--
You mean Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?

Whenever you do anything to the carbs you should first disconnect the throttle linkage. I do this by slackening the two nuts on the pinch-levers at each carb. Then I ensure they are loose and THEN I can do idle adjustment, syncronizing, etc.
Once everything idles where I want it the nuts are tightened and I'm ready for the road.
Um, getting proper clearance of the bell-cranks at the pinch-levers can be a little frustrating, I slip a piece of thin card stock in there and hold the lever against it while I tighten.

Then check to see that both throttles (as evidenced by the piston rise) are opening together.

--
Mike!

RJ;

If timing is OK, remove air filter, with engine OFF lift dashpots and verify throttle plates are closed all the way...this assures that your linkages are indeed set to close...once the engine is running, the throttles do get opened against the return force of the throttle return springs...have you changed or somehow affected these?...if so, that could be your cause...at idle, "help" these by pulling back on the throttles...does this lower idle?

Good Hunting!

Ron, thanks for the info. All I've done is back out the idle screws a few turns (carefully and simultaneously) It really made no difference. I nothiced that the linkage has a bit of a "rubbed" spot where it's been resting at it's maximum end. Realizing that, it has to be something other than those adjustment screws. I'll fiddle with the carbs next week when I get my new voltage regulator hooked up and can start the car with a working charging system.

I've only owned this particular car since May, so I'm not yet used to it's 'quirks' The previous owner (only other) took care of it fairly well, but he's off on vacation right now and I can't ask him anything about it.

btw - thanks for the suggestion of using an old circuit board from a computer card to repair my license plate light bracket. It worked well - except that I broke the other one and now have to do it too. :(
--
You mean Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?

RJ;

Let us know how you make out on the idle...

...on the insulators...they break because the insulated fibre material gets brittle and breaks after 40 years...those damned Volvos just don't last!...

Get out your timing light, and check the timing. Rev the engine up until the timing stops advancing, and check to make sure it is around 28-34 degrees advanced, if it's higher, lower it down to where you want it. What motor are you using? On my b20b it likes 30-32 degrees maximum advance. After my setting of 30-32 degrees advanced, when idling around 950rpm it reads about 10 degrees advanced, which is the stock setting. If you don't find that your timing is advanced too much, then the only other thing that I can think of would be a vacuum leak(or three). What're you using for carburation?
--
Kyle - '68 142? - Oregon Volvo Tuners?

This is a largely stock B18 with dual SU Carbs and an inline fuel pressure regulator.
--
You mean Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?