I have a 1987 240 GL, automatic, and I'm having a problem. The orange arrow, which I'm assuming means I'm in downshift WITHOUT overdrive will not go out and we can't get out of third gear.
We've replaced the fuse and it blew out twice and stopped working the third time and we can't seem to figure out what is wrong. If somebody could reply to this I would really appreciate it.

In my experience, the OD solenoid insulation seems to be a bigger problem than the relays, tnd the fact that you are blowing fuses indicates a short somewhere. Pull the OD solenoid, clean and inspect the wires, and reinsulate or replace them as necessary.

This is a bit heretical here on BBoard, but I feel that 90% of the drivers never really need to disable the OD. The exceptions are folks who tow things or live in a really hilly area. I have taken to bypassing the system by modifying the solenoid so that it is always open (see the archives). The existing system was unreliable when new, and 15 years do nothing to improve that reliability. Think about it. The system has four common failure modes: wear in the shift knob switch,
chafing of the switch wiring in the shifter, fatigue failure in the OD relay solder joints, and shorts in the solenoid wiring. While an OD failure doesn't technically leave you stranded, it can make freeway driving dangerous, and the problem is a PITA to diagnose and fix. Removing a solenoid paying close attention to cleanliness to brevent dirt from getting into the tranny.

End of lecture ;-) and good luck to you!

"The existing system was unreliable when new,..."

What do you base your opinion on? Keep in mind we only see troubles here. No reports from the thousands of trouble-free Auto OD users.

My personal experience with two 240s and one 940 over a combined total of some 12+ years comes to:

1 failed relay
0 circuit/wiring problems

IMO, that comes pretty close to being reliable. It's also my opinion that you are perpetuating (if not starting) a myth that has little basis in fact. Because your authoritatively phrased opinion will likely be taken as fact by any newbie that sees it. Probably to be repeated as gospel at every opportunity.

The relatively simple AT OD circuit is all but identical to that of the M46+OD (which has the additional 4th gear switch), but I've not heard that one labelled as being "unreliable".
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Bruce - I respect your opinions, and I have learned a lot from your posts over the years. You have certainly seen orders of magnitude more Volvos than I have. However, my personal experience with 240 series OD automatics has been quite different:

1988 244GL - No OD problems at all.

1989 244GL - Only put about 400 miles on the car before it became a parts car, no OD problems.

1989 244 - Paid $610 for car. Some PO had bypassed OD system by normal method, presumably because of problems.

1990 244DL - No OD problems resulting in failure, but pre-service inspection/maintenance showed solenoid wires with badly cracked insulation. Repair required removal of the solenoid. The OD circuit functioned properly for a year afterward until oldest son crashed it.

1991 244 - Also crashed by oldest son. Became parts car. No OD problems while the tranny was on this car (see ’92 244 below).

1991 244DL - OD "died" on freeway while driving car home from Maryland. Replaced the relay with one from an escorting 244 (the '92 below) which had the solenoid bypassed. The replacement worked for a while, but quit at the next gas stop. Pounded it on the glove box opening and it began working again. This vehicle will get a bypass before going into service.

1992 244DL - Upshift into OD was delayed until about 60 MPH rather than the usual 45 MPH (probably a problem with the tranny, which had other shift sequence problems). Replaced entire tranny with donor unit from '91 244 above. Six months later, OD died. Traced problem to cracked insulation on wiring from shifter (I forget if it was upstream or downstream from the connector). OD died again about 8 months later (probably due to an intermittent fault in the relay). I said *** ***** **** and did the bypass. No problems since then.

So my experience with seven admittedly old cars includes two unequivocal failures, one presumed failure, and a pending failure requiring, IMHO, intervention (a repair, by the way, that was anything but trivial). Why don't we say, 3.5/7.0 for simplicity, a 50% failure rate. From my PERSONAL perspective, this system has been the most problem-prone part of the 240s we have owned.

You are correct; the electrical circuit is simple (the hydraulic part of the system is another matter). However, I hold that it is poorly designed. The fatigue cold solder joints in the relay need no further discussion. They may not begin to fail until 10 years down the road, but the seeds of the problem were present when the vehicle rolled off the assemble line. The solenoid wiring is subjected to perhaps the most extreme environment (wild temperature fluctuations, salt, water, dirt, tranny fluid) of any piece of wiring on the car, yet, apparently no provision was made to provide it with extra protection. Overall, the whole system bears the hallmarks of being a thrown-together part of an hasty effort to adapt a three-speed tranny to four-speed operation.

I should note that an OD failure at 80 MPH is not easy on the engine or tranny. While not a safety issue in the same league as the braking or steering systems, sudden OD failure could distract a driver enough to precipitate an accident. Simply driving a vehicle with a top speed of 65 mph is enough to get you run down on some freeways.

There are indeed BrickBoard myths that implicitly overstate the prevalence of some problems. Some of these myths cause folks to spend extra money on problems on unneeded component replacements and preventative maintenance. However, in my experience and in my opinion, the OD system's reputation for unreliability is well-earned.

Glen,
Fair enough—you seem to have had more than your share of problems with what you admit to be older cars. My objection was to: "The existing system was unreliable when new,...". I just don't think anything in your experience supports that statement. You don't know how those cars performed for their first 13 to 17 years.

My point was to insert a dissenting opinion for any newbies to consider.

There are no 100% agelessly reliable cars that I know of. IMO, Volvo did pretty well with the 200 series. (Compare the # of '80s Saabs to '80s Volvos in the boneyard sometime.)

As for the possibility of (the controls?) being "an hasty effort to adapt a three-speed tranny to four-speed operation.", I believe the AW70/71 were built as 3-speeds with internal hydraulic overdrive (4th speed) by Aisin-Warner. Volvo had to implement the required controls, which admittedly will show problems with age. But "unreliable when new"? Over the top, IMO.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

You are right when you interpret the arrow light indicating "downshift" or direct drive (3rd gear) operation. The OD relay must be "off" due to the blown fuse. In that state, it grounds the light to turn it on. (the bulb has a constant +12V applied to its other side.)

Jorell's suggestion of a ground short in the solenoid wire is very likely. It would immediatly blow fuse 11 when the OD relay is powered ON at start-up.

Here is a brief outline of the control circuit...

OD operation involves 5 components and the wiring that connects them.

1) Fuse 11 (200) or 12 (700/900) supplies voltage to items #2, #3, #4, and #5

2) The Shifter button/switch (turns OD relay off and on)

3) The OD relay (controls Upshift Arrow light and Solenoid - separate wires)

4) The Upshift Arrow light (ON means relay and OD are OFF)

5) The OD solenoid (Allows OD engagement when ON, the "default" Relay state at Key On)

If the Shifter switch makes the Arrow light (#4) go on and off, then items 1, 2, and 3 are OK, and the problem is most likely the undercar wire to the Solenoid (#5) or the wire connector terminal.

Less likely would be be Solenoid itself.
Also possible (but unlikely) would be the relay controlling the Arrow light (#4) correctly, but failing to activate the Solenoid.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

If your engine or tranny is leaking oil... and has been for a long time, then the insulation between the solenoid and the relay is shorting to ground due to insulation failure (yep, believe it or not, Volvo used ABS insulation rather than teflon). Jack up the car and inspect the wire coming off the solenoid on the driver side of the tranny, if the insulation is cracked or missing, replace the wire. It might also be of value to resolve the oil leaks!

jorrell

The amber arrow means that the tranny is inhibited from upshifting into overdrive. The overdrive give a 20% drop in engine speed when engaged. Driving only in 3rd gear is not harmful except to fuel efficiency.

Your phrase: ...I'm in downshift... is not a phrase I am familiar with, more explanation, please?

The overdrive relay operates such that power can go to the amber dash light separately from power sent to operate the solenoid.

Since your amber arrow does not respond to the shifter handle push button, and the tranny stays in 3rd gear, the problem is likely in the switching wiring rather than the tranny itself.

The relay is found by removing the glove box and looking to the left. It is the first of a number of relays mounted on a rail that runs across below the center air vents.

The shifter handle switch wiring may be bad, or the relay may need re-soldering.

There is more information on these items in the FAQ. There is also a post with pictures about resoldering the relay.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

after hitting the Volvo dealership, and talking to them, I got a new relay switch ($63). Popped it in, and we're back up and running in 4th gear. I only wish everything was that easy to fix.
Thanks for all your help.