Hello again, bricksters

2-part post, so bear with me, and answer what you know :)

My baby (1987 760TI+, 187K mi) failed emissions testing. The tester said that there was too much oil in the exhaust, and it was causing the CO2 levels to rise.

First things first: PCV system. I've replaced my breather box and corresponding hoses, cleaned the (seriously gunked-up) Y-connector that connects them. I also, at the behest of my mechanic/father, replaced the valve stem seals (and the silencers, since they were there too). The valves looked okay when we were in there. Took care of the valve cover gasket as well.

So, before I go and spend another 20 bones on an emissions test, what's missing? Is there anything else I can check that might help me pass (and keep the oil out of the exhaust), aside from the obvious catylitic converter?

Second part: My turbo intake hose has a giant hole in it at its elbow, where the part that goes to meet the bypass valve intersects with the main part. Looks like it's oil damage, because it looks partially melted, besides being oil-soaked. This is the second hose the car has worn a hole into. I've no idea what to do with this; the turbo spins freely and spools fine, and that's all I know to check. But that hose is extremely expensive (as are the other hoses along that line), and before I go replacing it with a new one, I want to know that another hole won't be worn into it in six months.

thanks for reading my novel, and thank you for any replies and advice :)

volfro

Has anybody built the turbo hoses out of PVC or other materials? I'd like to replace the ones that are there with something that'll last a bit longer for my money, as I'm in college and working part-time and can't afford 60-100 bucks a hose...Any tips?

Also, what does that emissions report tell me about my car? Running rich caused by the hole in the turbo intake hose? Or what?

Who's emissions are you trying to pass? Georgia's?
Please post ALL the numbers, including the limits.
CO2 isn't a failing point; I assume you mean CO.
Oil won't, unless there's a HUGE smoke cloud, cause CO levels to rise; a hole in a hose after the AMM will cause rich running, which is likely your problem.

It is indeed Georgia's emission inspection.

I'll try to recreate the chart that's printed out here.

25/25 Test

Reading Allowed Result
HC ppm 196 174 Fail
CO% 1.81 1.12 Fail
NO ppm 763 1258 Pass
RPM 2155 3000 max
CO+CO2% 16.0 6.0 min


50/15 Test

Reading Allowed Result
HC ppm 180 180 Pass
CO% 0.89 1.01 Pass
NO ppm 538 1378 Pass
RPM 1667 3000 max
CO+CO2% 15.8 6.0 min

There's the numbers. Do they mean my car's running too rich?

Thanks

volfro

[edit]Whoops, the board deletes all the spaces there, so the table is hard to read. But I think you get the idea, no?

If you've got oil inside the hose, you've got a leaking seal on the turbine. It won't spool-up fine for long. You're looking at a rebuild on that puppy. If it's been doing it for awhile, your intercooler may have some treats in it for you as well. Ah, hindsight is 20/20 :-(

Good Luck!

Don't mean to spam the board, but...

I'm in college and working retail part-time, making it hard for me to afford parts for my car. I've read elsewhere that it's possible to fabricate turbo-related hoses of your own.

I only need my turbo intake hose at the moment, but I'm pretty sure all the hoses there are original, as they're all rather soft and oily, so they should be replaced. And, since I'm poor, I don't want to shell out 70 bucks for one hose that will fail over time--sooner rather than later, as much oil as my car has been consuming. I'd much rather make a hose for cheaper that lasts longer and won't flatten under vacuum.

Has anybody had any experience making hoses of this nature out of Neoprene or PVC? Any plans? Tips? Suggestions for materials, since we're talking high-heat areas on the exhaust side of the engine? Or companies that can do it for me for cheap?

thanks once again, bricksters

volfro

Argh! A turbo rebuild, eh? That's daunting.

Can that be a DIY project, if I buy a turbo rebuild kit? How much time and money will it cost (I've got the Garrett)?

Also, any tips when it comes to cleaning out the IC? Specific procedures, chemicals to use, etc?

Thanks for the reply

The turbo in my 940( back a while ago)was replaced with a used one that worked fine--could not rebuild the original one--you may have better luck.
The intercooler can be removed from the car, you will find a small plug that you can unscrew at the bottom--drain the oil from there--run some water thru it--garden hose was fine for me--after draining mix some simple green up and fill the sucker with the plug reinstalled--let sit 30 min or so- drain again and reflush.
Hope that helps
Poolman

You might want to take off the oil filler cap and check for blow-by. How is your oil consumption? I've heard it helps to have an oil change before the test, the theory being old oil has a lot of volatile byproducts in it. Maybe a high-boiling synthetic would help.

Consumption was pretty darn bad for awhile. I'd go through about a new quart a week.

I only did the new PCV stuff and the valve stem seals last night, so I've not had a chance to test it extensively. But after the five-or-so minute test drive, the filler cap and surrounding area was clean--EXTREMELY relieving to me, and I hope it stays that way. We'll see how she behaves in the next couple of days.

And yeah, changed the oil a week or two ago, and haven't put many miles on her since; used HD-40 instead of the typical 10W-30, in hopes that the thicker oil would stay behind its seals.

Thank you for the tips. I'll keep an eye on that blow-by over the next couple of days, as it was really bad before.