Last year, I struggled with the rear brakes on the '89 244 I bought non-running and without history. I survived the stuck e-brake shoes and all then.

Now it was time for new front pads and rotors. I thought this would be easier. Silly, I know. After fighting all the rust, I was able to get the pins and caliper bolts to come out on one side. Then the rotor was persuaded off with the help of a hammer and a wooden block.

Side two was even worse getting the pad pins out, but after some help from a dremel, they got punched out. Caliper bolts weren't so bad on that side. But the rotor will NOT budge. It is clearly rusted right to the hub. (Yes, I did remove the two screws through it: made that mistake at the bone yard last year!) I have banged it from behind with the wood block till my arm was tired. So I tried hose it with PB Blaster where it might get into the touch points and left it for the night.

Any creative ideas would be appreciated.
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Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 153K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '88 244 184K

This thread is fun just to read.

I got the rotors off of my 1800 with a 16oz household hammer, though a 3 pound sledge was the advised tool of choice.

-EdM.

Much more fun than watching your rotor move so slowly a millimeter seems like progress. I am on another break just as the lug studs are beginning to disappear inside. I'm using a 6 pound sledge and lots of PB Blaster.
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Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 153K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '88 244 184K

Wow, man, at least when the 30 years of rust let go on the 1800, the rotor just fell off.

-EdM.

I put more PB on it this morning before work and then went back to it after work with a bigger hammer. I'm still using a wood block because there really isn't clearance to bring the hammer directly to bear on the rotor without hitting the hanging caliper.

Anyway. It did begin to s..l..o..w..l..y budge. Now it is about half way out and Sophie's Maintainer was right, it doesn't get any easier as it moves, though I can't figure out what the ____ is holding it now.

Thanks for all the tips. Glad I didn't have to resort to some of them.
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Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 153K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '88 244 184K

I recently went through the same thing. I have NO idea why or how this worked, but as a last resort I used a rubber mallet after my BFH didn't work. (Desperation) I don't know if its better vibration or what, but both rotors popped off with 5-10 whacks of the rubber. I had beaten on the drivers side with a huge framing hammer for an hour... Hey, if all else fails...

Heat has never failed for me. Propane is usually enough but if you know someone who can use an oxy/acetalyne torch, go for it. o/a is not for the inexperienced however.

Skip
'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathood

16-24 oz. hammer is not big enough if its truly stuck.

I think I used a 5-lb, at least 3.
Mine took a lot of pounding to come off.
I think about 90 minutes total.

I suggest turning the steering to get a good angle on the disk rear.
Rotate disk 2 studs worth between blows.
Watch your progress against the stud threads - it will be SLOW progress.

Mine needed constant pounding till it fell off the studs.
I thought that after I broke it loose, it would pull off easily, but not true.
Tough going all the way.

Feel free to add more PB Blaster via front and rear as you pound.

Get a good, medium/large flat screwdriver. Craftsman brand works well. Wedge the blade between the rotor and hub at the circumference of one of the holes in the rotor. Hammer (don't pry) the screwdriver until it separates the two.

This method avoids heavy blows from a BFH, which aren't very healthy for the wheel bearings, rack, and other suspension components. Expect the screwdriver blade to be slightly bent by the process. Either bend it back or add it as-is to your Volvo "special tool" collection.

Good luck.

Not all rotors have those big holes through the hub portion. This one doesn't, so that tip won't work for me. But thanks.
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Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 153K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '88 244 184K

Can you remove the hub and rotor together and then go have them pressed apart?

Get a bigger hammer and a second person...have them hold the bar and rotate, while you hit it!....it will come off!
Cheers
Ian

Well - if you've tried levering it, PB Blasting it, heating it and hitting it, as a last resort you might try breaking it up. I'd be inclined to try with a small angle grinder to cut down the disc (where the caliper's missing) in line to the centre with one of the wheel stud holes.

Then score a groove into the surface of the drum part along the same line (don't go right through as the hub is under it). If this process was then repeated in line with the next wheel stud, I don't think it would take much to snap out the 'cheese wedge' - driving a cold chisel in the cut should do it.

I've never had to resort to this so far, so I can't talk from experience.

Remember if you do try this it's a casting and can shatter unpredictably (which actually helps you in this instance) - but do use appropriate safety equipment to protect eyes, hands, legs and anyone nearby from flying fragments and sharp edges.

Two ideas: (1) lever it by first clamping a 6-inch C clamp to the outer edge of the rotor; swivel the clamp so that the frame is tangential to the rotor. position a 3-foot metal pipe thru the clamp so that the end of the pipe rests on the hub - now you've got leverage - a couple of tugs should do it. (2) rent a gear puller.

-phil

Thanks. I haven't tried heating it yet, but I may break out the blowtorch tomorrow. I don't see any way to lever it. The mud guard on the back would bend or break pretty quickly if I tried to pry against that. I haven't seen any value in trying to remove that. Is there a reason and is it bolted from behind or does the rotor already have to be off?

I really hope I don't have to go so far as cutting it. I don't think I have tools up to that job.
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Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 153K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '88 244 184K

I'm a but surprised - if you've REALLY been hitting it - that it hasn't shattered already. As you don't plan on keeping the rotors you should have no worries about damaging it. I've just checked the FAQ's and it's highly unusual for one not to yeild to enthusiastic hammering!

As I said - it hasn't happened to me yet.

BTW you do need the hub off before the backplate can be removed.

Hammer on it between the studs (as though you were trying to drive it onto the hub) and administer a sound beating around the outside circumference of the drum-shaped portion of the rotor using a big hammer, this helps to break loose the rust holding it to the hub flange; then you can hammer it off the hub.
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina