I have owned this beauty for 3 or so years.

About a month ago, the engine just died on the road (all dashboard lights, radio are okay--just the engine). I started it up and drove it for a mile or so and it died again. Eventually it wouldn't start at all and I had it towed into the closest Volvo mechanic. I noticed each time before it wouldn't start that the fuel pump "buzz" just before ignition didn't occur as it usually does.

So...the Volvo mechanic said that it was probably the fuel pump going bad and that was causing the relay to overheat and burn out. I agreed to have him replace the relay and the fuel pump for $500.

Another 3 weeks go by and as I'm driving it around, the same d**n thing happens. So...I have it towed back into the mechanic and leave it with him to check it out.

This time he says it's probably the wiring harness which he says is disintegrating. I agreed to have him replace this for $800.

I pick the car up and drive about 20 mins to work in it with no problem. At the end of the day, I leave work and about a mile away, it dies AGAIN.

I have left it at work in the hope that someone on this discussion board can give some advice about what to do next. Having replaced the fuel pump, relay and wiring harness, what else could be wrong?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

My '82 K-jet with white distributior cap had similar symptoms a year ago. Logical troubleshooting got me nowhere, so I starting checking things one by one. The problem disappeared when I discovered and fixed a corroded connector in the igntion harness. This may be the same connector Mario refers to, but his description doesn't fit what I found.

Three separate sets of wires attach to the ignition computer plug in the engine compartment. The biggest bundle goes (mostly) to the distributor, the smallest bundle (a single wire) goes to the firewall. The third bundle consists of two white wires running together for few inches to male side of a connector. The female side of that connector has a red and white wire going to the ignition coil. When I cleaned up that connector, all symptoms disappeared. Same thing happened again a few months later -- I guess I should just cut out the connector and solder the two white wires from the computer directly to the red and white wire to the distributor.

Note that the fuel pump will run for only a few seconds unless its ECU gets a signal from the ECU (maybe that's what the single wire to the firewall does, when all esle is OK).

Good luck

Thanks Guys--

These are really good ideas. When I get back to it I will check them out and let you know.

Dan.

Hello,

If you have an 82 K-jet and it goes dead for no reason, read my old post it might help:


I have an 82 MPG with Chrysler ignition (white distributor cap) and it does not have a Ballest resistor. The voltage comes from fuse post 11 (hot side) to a 2 plug connector on the passenger firewall (blue wire) and then it goes to the coil term #15 (brown wire) via a 1 plug connector. I have had two occasions in the last ten years were that connectors has corroded out and blocked the 12volts to the coil. When I cleaned the connectors, the car ran great. This connector is located were the ballest used to be according to my Volvo green book. Find that connector and clean it up. It seems to be a problem unique to 82. Hope that helps.

If you have the above situation you can bypass the connector by connecting a wire from the battery + terminal to the #15 terminal of the coil (brown wire) and see if the car runs. If you have Bosch cap (red) check the wiring at the ballest resistor and make sure the ballest tests ok. You can use the voltage jumper to the coil with the Bosch to see if it starts, just don't leave it on or you might damage the coil. It makes no differance on the Chrysler, but the jumper lead is not fused so it should be temporary. Hope this helps.

Mario


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'I've always been crazy, but it's kept me from going insane' Waylon Jennings

Be greatful he is not your MD, but he should be your ex if not late-mechanic. This is why brickboard is so good. You have ruled out the relay, and presumably the pump IF he installed a new Bosch pump. You need to check the fuse box fuel pump fuse and look for a fuel pump ground problem (trunk). It is kind of mysterious at this point. I would look at the distributor cap and consider the hall sender. Others might have better ideas. Best idea is stay away from that knucklehead.

If you have a new burn on your new fuel pump relay, consider the socket. The crimp on the 1/4" terminals inside the relay socket is a weak spot in the fuel pump power circuit. If you have the old relay, look at it too, for a burned or melted, overheated terminal. That is the one you want to pull out of the socket and repair. That particular socket is not part of your new wire harness.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Art is right maybe, if this is a K-jet car look for a melted plug at the relay above the driver's left knee.

Oops, I assumed k-jet, forgetting those LH-1 cars. And LH-1 is likely in California, right?

Way to tell... LH-1 has cylindrical metal electrical device between air filter and throttle (AMM). K-jet's intake manifold has a broad flat top.

And I don't know if LH-1 do the "buzz" when you turn the key on.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore